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Old 06-18-2018, 04:36 PM
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I finally got around to welding up my new steering. I bought a HD kit from Barnes 4wd that included 1.5" DOM tubing (.25 wall thickness) and all the weld bungs, misalignment spacers, and 3/4" heims joints needed for the job. All I had to do was cu the tubing and weld in the bungs. I also had to drill out the pitman arm and the knuckles to accept to new hardware. Here are some photos of the setup.

Here is a close up of the welded in bung. TIG welded everything. I used a rosetta weld as well as welding all the way around the insert.
IMG_6552

Here is another with the heim joint in place.
IMG_6553

Here is a side by side with my old (so called) heavy duty Terra Firma stuff. It was complete crap and lasted just a couple of trips before it bent.
IMG_6554

Links in place
IMG_6555
IMG_6556

All I have to do now is fab up a quick steering damper bracket!
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:14 AM
El Ed El Ed is offline
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very nice!
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Old 07-07-2018, 08:21 PM
DiscoPotato DiscoPotato is offline
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what was your measurements? also did you figure out something for the steering damper?
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Old 07-08-2018, 01:13 PM
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Are you not running hydro-assist with the steering?
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Old 07-08-2018, 01:36 PM
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no

Quote:
Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
Are you not running hydro-assist with the steering?
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Old 07-08-2018, 02:24 PM
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You went to all that and didn't mount the tie rod on the front

Hydro assist is difficult without at least 5" of lift
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Old 07-08-2018, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverover View Post

Hydro assist is difficult without at least 5" of lift
Is there not enough clearance? I don't know how much lift my RRC had, but I had plenty of room for the hydro assist components.
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverover View Post
You went to all that and didn't mount the tie rod on the front

Hydro assist is difficult without at least 5" of lift
Why would I mount in on the front? I mean...i like it behind the axle where it is a little bit protected. All the Jeep guys i wheel with always always comment on wishing their tie rod was behind their axles....
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:48 AM
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Well if you look at your old rods the one on the front is straight and the one hanging below the axle on the back is bent, there is a good 4" more clearance on the front
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:24 AM
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JKymme If you have any pics I would love to see what your setup was we have a couple of 3" trucks that would go hydro assist if they could.

We found on a 3" truck the ram and tie rod would bind before full compression
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverover View Post
Well if you look at your old rods the one on the front is straight and the one hanging below the axle on the back is bent, there is a good 4" more clearance on the front
You also need to get you hands on a RHD steering knuckle if I'm not mistaken. Seems like just exchanging one set of problems for another. Yes it hangs down lower behind the axle, but its also somewhat protected by having the axle in front of it. Yes its higher in the front but also possibly more prone to hitting rocks.
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Old 07-09-2018, 12:14 PM
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You don't need a different knuckle on a D2 it is setup for left or right hand drive

Not even close to as prone as behind the axle if you go over a rock any taller than the bottom of your pumpkin it will hang on the steering if it's out front it is about the same as the bottom of the axle tube.
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Old 07-09-2018, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
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You also need to get you hands on a RHD steering knuckle if I'm not mistaken.
... and if you use a RHD steering knuckle's arm for tie rod, you'll end up with reverse Ackerman angle. Pretty badly.
I have a Rover axle with a front-mounted tie rod under my jeep - it was not an easy conversion.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:47 PM
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Question for Disco_Drum. Why not run the bolts up from the bottom? That way you wouldn't have the thread hanging down and run the risk of messing it up?
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
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Question for Disco_Drum. Why not run the bolts up from the bottom? That way you wouldn't have the thread hanging down and run the risk of messing it up?
I considered this very thing. I finally chose the way i did it so that the non-threaded portion of the bolt was handling the bulk of the stress. I assume the non-threaded section is stronger.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by disco_drum View Post
I considered this very thing. I finally chose the way i did it so that the non-threaded portion of the bolt was handling the bulk of the stress. I assume the non-threaded section is stronger.
It is a single-shear application - so the only thing that matters is that the shear plane crosses the non-threaded portion of the bolt.
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverover View Post
JKymme If you have any pics I would love to see what your setup was we have a couple of 3" trucks that would go hydro assist if they could.

We found on a 3" truck the ram and tie rod would bind before full compression
Unfortunately I don't think I do. I'll see if I can maybe find some on Pirate, but I don't know if I posted any. Basically I drilled out the pitman arm and had the drag link on the bottom with a heim joint and then used a long bolt though the pitman arm which had the ram on the top side. I was told it would eventually wallow out the pitman arm, but I never had any issues, and pitman arms are cheap. For the frame side there is a good spot on the passenger side to weld some tabs for the ram.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:45 PM
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I searched through my posts on Pirate and couldn't find any pictures. I did take a trip down memory lane when I was living at my parents house and had a bunch of cars and a 3 car garage to work in. What a time to be alive!
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:58 PM
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I did take a trip down memory lane!
I remember the back of your zebra striped D2 covered in flies and deer blood while bbqing with Walter by a creek in the GWNF.
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Old 07-12-2018, 07:55 PM
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This is what I had.
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:28 PM
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Mike, did you use RHD right-side knuckle?
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Old 07-13-2018, 06:19 AM
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D2’s have lhd/rhd knuckles from the factory.
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