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Old 04-19-2018, 01:14 PM
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Has anyone removed the ABS Pump/Valve Block and put in some simple Junction Blocks after the Master Cylinder for the front and rear. Its a real pain to do a complete system bleed without a computer device and 80 miles from the nearest shop i'd trust.

I figured without the Pump, anyone could just do a pressure bleed anywhere if needed and have real brakes without having to go to a dealer.

Just an idea while waiting for parts.
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Old 04-19-2018, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bendts View Post
Has anyone removed the ABS Pump/Valve Block and put in some simple Junction Blocks after the Master Cylinder for the front and rear. Its a real pain to do a complete system bleed without a computer device and 80 miles from the nearest shop i'd trust.

I figured without the Pump, anyone could just do a pressure bleed anywhere if needed and have real brakes without having to go to a dealer.

Just an idea while waiting for parts.
How often do you have to do a full system bleed?
every 2 years?
Removing the ABS system seems ill-advised to avoid such an infrequent event.
Aside from all the other issues such an action would cause.
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Old 04-19-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-00-4.6 View Post
Aside from all the other issues such an action would cause.
What are the other issues?
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Old 04-19-2018, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bendts View Post
What are the other issues?
I don't know: maybe shit with your brakes? Just limber up your leg and get to pumping.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:44 PM
Va_Disco Va_Disco is offline
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There is a write up on Dweb (I think) somewhere about how to do this. I recall reading it not to long ago. If your brakes all work properly (aside from not liking to bleed the ABS Block) you shouldn't have a problem with removing the ABS Block and either installing new lines to the proportioning valve or figuring out how to cobble it together with Tees (I wouldn't recommend the Tees)
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Old 04-19-2018, 05:00 PM
Dave03S Dave03S is offline
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In the absence of a scan tool to power bleed the ABS there is an alternate method... Bleed brakes like any normal car, your pedal will still be soft... Shift your T-case to low range and activate the HDC... speed up enough to let the HDC slow you back down... do this a few times and then bleed normally again. Do this in a quiet area without traffic as you will be in the way... Ideally a parking lot with a slight slope.
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:58 PM
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I've never used T4 to bleed the brakes on a DII after replacing the modulator or the master cylinder.
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Old 04-20-2018, 10:42 AM
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All a computer does to "bleed the ABS" is open the valves. You can do that by finding a large parking lot (or just a long enough, straight side street) and standing on the brakes to activate the ABS. Not a big deal. (HDC is doing the same thing)

Not to mention that when you do bleed/flush the brake fluid, air does not get into the ABS block (unless you opened up the system and the valves to air) that can't be bleed as normally done.

And even if you have your ABS out, it's still not a big deal (the air in the valves is very small) to deal with/bleed out. I've had my ABS block out and apart, did the 3 Amigos fix, put it back together, bled normally, jam on the brakes in the street, rebleed. Good to go. Also had my ABS pump/block out of a Suburban (twice). Never a problem.

Don't listen to people who tell you "You need a computer to properly bleed the brakes." They either don't know what they are talking about or are trying to get money out of you.

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Old 04-20-2018, 10:57 AM
ezzzzzzz ezzzzzzz is offline
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D1, no problem. D2 abs delete will kill traction control and HDC along with a dash full of lights. It's superior to the early abs setup. I cheat with the power bleed in my Hawkeye but the manual approach will work too but just takes longer.
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