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Old 06-08-2017, 11:56 PM
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Finally got around to installing the rock sliders. Hopefully less worry about bashing rocker panels.
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:00 AM
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Who made those, and did you take any install pics? This section is really for detailed installation and repair guides. If it's just some photos of the results, it might be better for your truck page in the members garage.
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Who made those, and did you take any install pics? This section is really for detailed installation and repair guides. If it's just some photos of the results, it might be better for your truck page in the members garage.
I was actually going to get around to that. They are Terrrafirma TF809's, which "should" just bolt on, but that wasn't the case. There are a few things you need to be aware of when you install them and I'll put those down on paper tomorrow.

Update:

I looked around at a ton of options for sliders: weld yourself kits on the web and Ebay, whole pre-assembled sets, even plans for complete DIY projects. Settled on the Terrafirma as their other products have served me well, and I was somewhat counting on a pretty good fit (I know, it's a Land Rover). I also preferred their bolt-through attachment versus the nutsert attachment of the Britpart version (also sold by a number of vendors). There is an outfit in Australia, APT Offroad, that uses a very similar attachment system.

Installation went reasonably well, for the most part. I did run into a few issues that someone installing these might want to be aware of.

1. No instructions in the box, had to google them and they aren't easy to find. Apparently, a long-standing and notorious problem. Logically, you can easily tell what everything's for in the package, but...

2. Since they are a bolt-through design, you have to drill all the way through the box section body rail. You use the existing holes that are utilized by the plastic rivets holding on the stock plastic running board trim on the front (outside) face, but you have to advance the holes through the back side of the box section for the through-bolts, so make sure you're working on a level surface and that the drill is level. Several holes can only be drilled from the back side due to their position relative to the doors (too close to the hinge) so careful measurement and transfer to the inside of the rail is important. Also, bolt holes are close...sort-of. Be prepared to hog a few out.

3. The through-bolts utilize long bushings that slip over the bolts to prevent the box section from crushing. In order to fit these sleeves over the bolts, and into the rail, one hole for each bolt (either inside or outside) must be drilled out to 13 mm. I'd actually go a little over that (maybe 14 mm or 9/16') so you have some room to move stuff around, especially when trying to line up 2 holes in the slider c-channel and two holes in the body rail, especially the holes you had to drill from the back side. A uni-bit seems to be the perfect candidate for hogging out any further if needed. I'll attach the instructions I found and this will become much clearer. In general, you can tell which side (inner or outer) you need to drill out to 13 mm, based on the size and shape of the corresponding hole in the slider c-channel. Some are large and round (this is the side of the body rail that gets the larger hole) and some are small and slotted (thse do not get drilled out any larger than the bolt diameter).

4. The anti-crush sleeves/bushings seemed to be a bit too long as shipped. While they fit dimentionally inside the c-channel, they were about 4 mm longer than the body rail was deep, and where the sleeves are inserted from the front side, the bolt heads stood too proud and the front doors hit them. Remember, one hole for each bolt is drilled out to slide the bushing in, so when you tighten up the bolt, the sleeve will protrude out the non-restrained end. I cut them down just a shade and they bolted up nice and snug without deforming the body rail.

5. One hole on each side, last one at the rear door, can't be utilized as the outer hole lines up with the rear body mount flange on the inside of the body rail. This was on my 2000 D2, so it may not be a problem for other years, but as I said above, the outer holes are pretty close all along the rail, and they obviously intended for you to use that last hole, with a sleeve, but it just ain't happening.

I'll add more as it comes to mind. I should have taken some photos to illustrate the issues, but at the time, solving problems and beating sunset were the focus. I'll shoot some tonight or tomorrow to illustrate some of this.

ETA #1: To illustrate how hard it is to find the instructions, I just tried from my office and can't even find the web page I found yesterday. Using the SAME search terms. It's still up on the computer in my garage, so I'll grab it when I get home.

Last edited by MacRoadie; 06-09-2017 at 11:55 AM. Reason: ETA instructions issue.
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:40 AM
Al415 Al415 is online now
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Sorry to bump this old thread... but I?m wrestling with this installation right now and having a hard time sourcing any instructions online. Wondering if the OP managed to preserve that link?
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Old 04-13-2018, 05:12 PM
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http://www.terrafirma4x4.com/instruc...ting/TF809.pdf
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Old 04-13-2018, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy View Post
Thank you, you?re a Star! Not knowing I had to drill the sliders themselves, I was driving myself nuts figuring out how to get the washers inside the sills.
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