ARB Tech Tip

D

D Chapman

Guest
If you run ARB lockers f/r with the ARB wiring harness, you understand that in order to engage the front locker, the rear locker has to be locked. I think this sucks. Here is the fix:

-Remove the Yellow wire from switch #2.
-Remove the red wire from switch #1 and cut off the connector.
-With an appropriate length wire, make a "T" in the red wire so that the red wire can be connected to both the #1 and #2 switches, in the center position.
-Add two new connectors, and BAM!, the switches now work independently of each other.

You can now engage only the front; only the rear; or both lockers. This would be very beneficial if you ever ripped a rear air line, or broke something inside the diff.

Okay, now thats all fine and good, but it still sucks. In order to lock the diffs, the compressor has to be in the "ON" position. I think it's silly to have only one way to activate your locking system, I.E. air compressor only, or Power tank only.... So, there needs to be a way to override the compressor if the Power Tank wants/needs to be utilized.

Here is how you do that.
- Tee in 2 wires to the Red/Yellow wire running to the center terminal of the compressor switch.
-Unplug the Yellow wire on switch #2.
-Unplug the Red wire from switch #1.
-Plug in the two new wires you Tee'ed into the compressor switch into the open terminals on switch #1 and #2.

Now, when the key is "ON", all 3 switches work independently. This means you could charge your system with a Power Tank/compressor and still be able to activate the lockers without the compressor being turned "on". This would be beneficial if you're traveling in deep water and need the lockers locked, but do not want the compressor to suck water; or if you would have some sort of wiring problem with the compressor and need to resort to Power Tank air.
 

antichrist

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2004
8,208
0
68
Atlanta, GA
D Chapman said:
in order to engage the front locker, the rear locker has to be locked.
Snip
In order to lock the diffs, the compressor has to be in the "ON" position.
If you just told me this outright I'd think you were crazy. I'd say no one in their right mind would design a system like that.

I love it when people design things without thinking about a failure mode. :banghead:
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
I think ARB did this for the stupid people.....More specifically, accidental locking of the diff's at highway speeds.

....although a good idea, I don't like it. At all.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
peter sherman said:
use air switches & youll never have to monkey around with that shit


Yeah, that's the way to go if you had to buy them....

....but you would still have to install some sort of shut off valves in each line in case of breakage.
 

peter sherman

Well-known member
May 10, 2004
3,072
0
Fake Forest, IL
not sure i follow that. My lines are pretty simple hand full of push locks for repair.
comp to switches - one line through bulkhead split under the dash
switches to arbs - 2 lines out for arbs 2 lines into one then the single line out through BH for exaust.
 

jdcline78

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2005
160
0
45
Nashville tn
Good write up I've done this and i think everyone should


But I have a question what compressor do you run when your ARB takes a shit? i know there is better and cheaper options out there what is everyone else running?
 

kid4lyf

Well-known member
Sep 23, 2006
263
1
Wisconsin
peter sherman said:
you can sell the arb wire harness
Yup, to another poor soul with a leaky ARB solenoid.
After I had my second switch failure and was sick of hearing the solenoid piss air I went to this.
Never looked back.
 

agbuckle98

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
1,831
1
D Chapman said:
If you run ARB lockers f/r with the ARB wiring harness, you understand that in order to engage the front locker, the rear locker has to be locked. I think this sucks. Here is the fix:

-Remove the Yellow wire from switch #2.
-Remove the red wire from switch #1 and cut off the connector.
-With an appropriate length wire, make a "T" in the red wire so that the red wire can be connected to both the #1 and #2 switches, in the center position.
-Add two new connectors, and BAM!, the switches now work independently of each other.

You can now engage only the front; only the rear; or both lockers. This would be very beneficial if you ever ripped a rear air line, or broke something inside the diff.

Okay, now thats all fine and good, but it still sucks. In order to lock the diffs, the compressor has to be in the "ON" position. I think it's silly to have only one way to activate your locking system, I.E. air compressor only, or Power tank only.... So, there needs to be a way to override the compressor if the Power Tank wants/needs to be utilized.

Here is how you do that.
- Tee in 2 wires to the Red/Yellow wire running to the center terminal of the compressor switch.
-Unplug the Yellow wire on switch #2.
-Unplug the Red wire from switch #1.
-Plug in the two new wires you Tee'ed into the compressor switch into the open terminals on switch #1 and #2.

Now, when the key is "ON", all 3 switches work independently. This means you could charge your system with a Power Tank/compressor and still be able to activate the lockers without the compressor being turned "on". This would be beneficial if you're traveling in deep water and need the lockers locked, but do not want the compressor to suck water; or if you would have some sort of wiring problem with the compressor and need to resort to Power Tank air.

Very god tech tips here, and he is exactly right too, I have damaged a rear air line and couldn't get the rear to engage, but all I did to get the front to engage was switch the plugs on the air solenoids on the compressor, and now it thinks the front is the back. This was more a field expedient fix than the more permanent fix explained earlier, but it will get you going again in a pinch.
 

racerwad

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2005
840
0
tacoma, wa
thanks for the tip. i'm about to install an ARB and i would have never known. i'm installing a rear first and a front down the road; will i run into the same problem or is the point moot since i could use (and would use) two separate harnesses?

andy
 

gmookher

Well-known member
Oct 30, 2004
5,201
0
Grand Canyon State
so If I read this rite,(I am new about to buy my 1st arb locker) I dont NEED the solenoids if I just do the gulf coast air switches? I think the solenoid, from what I have read, is the weakest part of the arb setup, is there no better solenoid for this?

the diffs dont care how you get the air to them, rite>?
 

alex

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
2,310
0
Libertyville, IL
Correct. All pneumatic is the way to go. While you're at it, get rid of the metric air hose, and switch over to 1/4" OD air brake line.
 

kid4lyf

Well-known member
Sep 23, 2006
263
1
Wisconsin
alex said:
Correct. All pneumatic is the way to go. While you're at it, get rid of the metric air hose, and switch over to 1/4" OD air brake line.
ARB's HD line kit is the shit.
Crimped on 90 degree swivel fitting to a wire lined hose till you get out of the danger areas.
 

peter sherman

Well-known member
May 10, 2004
3,072
0
Fake Forest, IL
true that Alex!!!!
You can have wire coated crap when that shit gets cancer from road salt & blows fix that in the field.......

Oh ya sell your solenoids & pay for two trucks
 
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