1996 Disco Won't Start

[stu454]

***Before anyone asks, the battery tests good and I just replaced the starter. Also, the fuel pump hums nicely when the key is first turned.***

So, I jump into the truck after work and turn the key. "Click". I get a jump and nothing. Connections are good. I give the starter a few whacks while a coworker turns the key. Nothing. I hear a very audible "click" from the starter when the key is turned.

I get a new starter and swap it. Still nothing except that same damned "click".

I'm at a loss. Could it be a crankshaft sensor??

Details: 1996 D1 non-EVAP.

 

[fishEH]

You verify all the connections at the battery?

 

[stu454]

Yes, the battery connections are good. (I've had that problem before.)

I realized that I did not check the ground strap that runs from the top starter bolt. Its connection at the starter (both the old and the replacement) was good. I'll figure out where it terminates and check that connection.

I'm going to laugh at myself if it's something that simple.

 

[singingcamel]

Replaced the starter because of the no start issue ?
It has to be a poor connection to the starter , not allowing the correct voltage to engage the starter , wired up right?
You can pull the starter and bench test it.

 

[kk88rrc]

Starter relay maybe.

 

[stu454]

I did just replace the starter with a new one. Same issue. The connections between the battery and the starter are good. I'll check the ground strap that runs from the top starter bolt as soon as I can.

To recap, I'm getting a loud "click" from the starter when I turn the key.

 

[sven]

Use a jumper cable and bypass the existing ground and positive wire. If it spins the starter, your ground or + battery cable is dead.

 

[My6speedz]

-check ground
-I have seen bad batteries that test good yet cause random erratic problems
-did you check out the flex plate when swapping the starter?

 

[jmcclenning]

do you have a check engine light when you turn the key on?

 

[stu454]

No CEL has shown up. No, I didn't eyeball the flexplate.

Update: The battery tested good. All of the grounds appear to be in good shape. I turned the crank with a breaker bar, so the engine will turn. The under bonnet fuses were good; the fusible link for the alternator looked okay, but the copper under the window wasn't shiny like the other links. I ran the jumper cables from the battery to the starter's positive and negative terminals. Nothing except the same old "click". I'll putter with it some more but on Friday it gets a trip on the rollback to Luke Miles' shop. I appreciate everyone's advice.

 

[My6speedz]

Can you check all the points with a meter to verify they are seeing the correct voltage?

 

[discostew]

Can you turn the engine over ? Sometimes you can turn it with a socket or wrench on the alternator pulley. What if that bitch is locked up ?

 

[jymmiejamz]

I would do a voltage drop test from the battery negative to the engine block to see if you have a good ground. That is assuming the motor isn't locked up.

 

[stu454]

The motor turns. I put a breaker bar on the crank.

 

[jymmiejamz]

The motor turns. I put a breaker bar on the crank.

Then you probably have a bad connection somewhere. If you have a set of jumper cables you could run one from the negative cable to the block and see if it starts. If it does, then you know you have a bad ground. If that doesn't work, you can run a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the main power on the starter, then see if it starts. If it doesn't then you have a bad starter.

 

[stu454]

The starter relay behind the passenger kick panel is good. I could feel it activate and I swapped it with the other relay next to it. I bench tested the old starter and the gear would move forward but nothing else happened. Hmmmm.

 

[jmcclenning]

i should of been more clear... Check and make sure your check engine light illuminates when you turn your key on... If it does not illuminate it could be immobilized.. Reset by turning the key in the drivers door 10 times lock, unlock & repeat. Check all your fuses, and check your main power cable to the starter... I've seen them break right behind the frame rail... Test light and volt meter are your friends

 

[discostew]

***Before anyone asks, the battery tests good and I just replaced the starter. Also, the fuel pump hums nicely when the key is first turned.***

So, I jump into the truck after work and turn the key. "Click". I get a jump and nothing. Connections are good. I give the starter a few whacks while a coworker turns the key. Nothing. I hear a very audible "click" from the starter when the key is turned.

I get a new starter and swap it. Still nothing except that same damned "click".

I'm at a loss. Could it be a crankshaft sensor??

Details: 1996 D1 non-EVAP.

Sounds like your loosing voltage . To find it you need to do what Jimmie said and measure the voltage drop on both the ground and battery pos sides of the circuit . To do this you place your meter leads at both ends of the same cable while someone try's to crank it . There should be very little voltage / if the meter measured 3.5 volts then you have found your excessive resistance .
Think of voltage as a difference of potential . Between the neg. and pos. terminals of a good battery you should have a 12.6 volt difference or whatever . If say the voltage drop was 4 volts from your neg battery terminal to your engine block ( while someone is holding key to crank ) . There's really only 8.6 volts difference of potential at your starter . The rest was lost in getting thru the excessive resistance .

 

[stu454]

So, it was a combo problem. Bad starter and a bad positive cable from the battery. Thanks, everyone.

I'm such a fucking rookie.

 

[p m]

Stu... that fuel pump on a 95 LWB in Yuma four years ago kicked our collective asses, too.
After all these years, we still believe that there's just one thing broken