Because thats a lot of extra work when you can just use the correct bolts that don't need to be re-torqued.
P306 = External HG leak?
- Thread starter pinkytoe69
- Start date
Because thats a lot of extra work when you can just use the correct bolts that don't need to be re-torqued.
Ok
I got the covers off, and nothing looked amiss, so I figured I would check the torques.
When I installed, I went with a 25-50-75 sequence
Going by this pic:
2, 4 and 5 started to tighten at about 45 ftlbs.
Ol' #1 however tightened at a whopping 15 ftlbs! :applause:
So...
- re-torque both sides higher and see what happens?
- re-do the passenger gasket, re-torque the drivers head at higher torques?
- re-do both gaskets at higher torques?
r.e. doing bolts instead, I got studs so I could just reuse them if I had to do it again. Yes, I plan to use the studs again and I realize the irony, masochism, or whatever label that deserves.
I got the covers off, and nothing looked amiss, so I figured I would check the torques.
When I installed, I went with a 25-50-75 sequence
Going by this pic:
2, 4 and 5 started to tighten at about 45 ftlbs.
Ol' #1 however tightened at a whopping 15 ftlbs! :applause:
So...
- re-torque both sides higher and see what happens?
- re-do the passenger gasket, re-torque the drivers head at higher torques?
- re-do both gaskets at higher torques?
r.e. doing bolts instead, I got studs so I could just reuse them if I had to do it again. Yes, I plan to use the studs again and I realize the irony, masochism, or whatever label that deserves.
Yeah, Ill go at least 80 this time.
I was leery cause the gaskets had been done before, and I couldnt put the studs in by hand.
I was leery cause the gaskets had been done before, and I couldnt put the studs in by hand.
That's what would do since it requires minimal work to put back together. Realistically the gasket is ruined and the head or block could have some damage. If you go the cheap fuck route I wouldn't even bother putting any new parts on it such as valve cover gaskets since it may not work.
So first you say the problem is him not doing it right, now you are suggesting that he should not do it right. Makes sense.
You should have done a better job cleaning the threads assuming the studs are machined properly.
If you just use the correct factory parts you won't have to do it again.
Did you use the correct arp kit, they offer two different ones for Land Rover v8's. And did you follow the instructions exactly? Some kits require thread lube to properly torque.
And x10000 on chasing the threads in the block to ensure that you get as much thread engagement as possible.
And x10000 on chasing the threads in the block to ensure that you get as much thread engagement as possible.
I used the kit from Lucky8. Other than the torque sequence, yes, I followed the directions. Used the ARP ultra lube.
Though I didnt chase them, I did get the studs all the way down.
Though I didnt chase them, I did get the studs all the way down.
Sorry, Im a little confused by your advice...
You say the gasket is probably ruined, but I shouldnt replace it? What good does re-torquing a compromised gasket do?
Also, you say not to put any new parts on it, but I should get stretch bolts? Unless perhaps the latter was meant as general advice and not specific to my current reality? :cheers:
Sorry, I may have worded that poorly. If it were mine I might try just tightening the bolts and just putting the valve covers back on with the old gaskets to see if that fixes it. There is a very strong possibility that the gasket is damaged, and there may also be damage to the block or head. If you do end up tightening the old stuff, and it doesn't work, you will need to do a full head gasket job with which I suggest you use factory parts including stretch bolts.
So, I think the block thread is fucked.
Tried to snug up #1 today, and it wont torque. After turning and turning, notihng seems to be happening other than the stud being pulled up through the head.
poo
Tried to snug up #1 today, and it wont torque. After turning and turning, notihng seems to be happening other than the stud being pulled up through the head.
poo
I thought about putting a helicoil in it. Thats alot of work though.
Since I only paid $2000 for the thing, I might just cut my losses.
Since I only paid $2000 for the thing, I might just cut my losses.
Not that it matters at this point, why did you not torque in proper sequence? That is a very important step.
The studs should not be blamed for improper installation.
Im not blaming the studs
I went 25-50-75 instead of 20-40-80 because:
1. I read stories of popping threads when going all the way to 80
2. the headgaskets had been done before, and whomever did it before me put the gaskets in upside down, so who knows how well the job was done.
R.e. factory parts, I wouldnt be surprised if a stretch bolt wouldnt have popped it on install. I went studs cause I figured, if nothing else, they would be kinder to the block threads.
fwiw I've installed numerous stud kits now with no issues.
These blocks are crap shoots, most likely the threads were already bad.
Your situation is unfortunate but at least you haven't poured endless amounts of money on it before realizing the best thing to do is ditching it and buying something better.
These blocks are crap shoots, most likely the threads were already bad.
Your situation is unfortunate but at least you haven't poured endless amounts of money on it before realizing the best thing to do is ditching it and buying something better.