R
rsriprac
Guest
I've been around DiscoWeb.org for a while but haven't contribute much for what I've gotten out of it, so heres my guide for fixing a code P1317 I've be getting.
(Discovery 1996, 4.0L, 190K miles)
P1317 Rough Road Line Low Fault
P1318 Rough Road Line High Fault
A while back I had the 'Check Engine' light would come on and some duration (possible weeks) would pass it would go away. The OBD II code that was coming on and off was P1317. This cycle would persist for a while until recently it has not gone away and I needed to smog check my car. P1317 is defined as "Rough Road Line Low Fault", which could imply that the ABS/speed sensor(s) in the wheel(s) are busted and no current can run through them. I believe that you do not need to have ABS to have these sensor since they are used to detect if you are going over some rough road and that your engine is not knocking.
There could be other scenarios that can cause P1317, but in this case it was a bad speed sensor (in appose to the PROM problem). Here was the steps I took to troubleshoot to see if the sensor was really bad.
1. Locate the sensor. It is where the only electrical wires connect near the break calipers.
2. Trace the wire from the sensor back up to the electrical connector socket.
3. With the multimeter, select the Resistance measurement (usually denoted with Omega character) and jab the conductors of the connector (which leads to the sensor) with the multimeter probe. If the multimeter probe is too short, unfold two paperclips and hold each touching the probes and use the paperclips as probe extensions.
4. The reading on the multimeter should show about 1K Ohms (+- 10%). If it shows a very high resistance or infinity (i.e. no reading), then the sensor is dead. Make sure you are correctly touching the conductors within the connector, noting that it is far back and deep. If you are getting P1318, this imples that one of the sensor is shorted, so when probing the sensors, you are looking for a sensor that is showing very low resistance ( <<1K Ohms).
My problem was with the sensor in the front left wheel. So here is the fix to remove the sensor.
The fix:
Materials:
1 Medium flat-head screwdriver
1 Large flat-head screwdriver
1 Electric Multimeter with ability to measure resistance
1 Replacement sensor (~$420 from dealer, arrg! I got mine in Hollywood, CA.)
1. (skip this if dead sensor is in the rear wheel) Turn the front wheel towards the opposite side of the busted sensor; i.e. if bad sensor is on the front left wheel, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. this will make it easier to access the sensor.
2. Jack up the wheel and remove wheel. This will make it easier to access, you can do it without remove the wheel, but it is more difficult.
3. Locate the sensor.
4. Remove clip holding break line from mud shield using a large flat-head screwdriver.
5. Clean out all dirt around the sensor. You want to make sure no dirt falls into the wheel joint.
6. With a flat-head screwdriver, ply out the sensor (sensor has a little lip for the screwdriver to catch). the sensor does not have any screw holding it in. Push over the break line if it is in the way.
7. Once the sensor is out, pull out the whole unit and wiring that is connected to the sensor.
To install the new sensor, do the reverse.
My explanation of why the code initially came in and out was because the sensor started to fail and the internal connection inside the sensor was coming loose. Once it completely failed, then the error code will not go away. My guess is that it would be difficult to determine which of the sensor is bad if it does work and intermittently starts to fail.
Thanks discoweb.org!
(Discovery 1996, 4.0L, 190K miles)
P1317 Rough Road Line Low Fault
P1318 Rough Road Line High Fault
A while back I had the 'Check Engine' light would come on and some duration (possible weeks) would pass it would go away. The OBD II code that was coming on and off was P1317. This cycle would persist for a while until recently it has not gone away and I needed to smog check my car. P1317 is defined as "Rough Road Line Low Fault", which could imply that the ABS/speed sensor(s) in the wheel(s) are busted and no current can run through them. I believe that you do not need to have ABS to have these sensor since they are used to detect if you are going over some rough road and that your engine is not knocking.
There could be other scenarios that can cause P1317, but in this case it was a bad speed sensor (in appose to the PROM problem). Here was the steps I took to troubleshoot to see if the sensor was really bad.
1. Locate the sensor. It is where the only electrical wires connect near the break calipers.
2. Trace the wire from the sensor back up to the electrical connector socket.
3. With the multimeter, select the Resistance measurement (usually denoted with Omega character) and jab the conductors of the connector (which leads to the sensor) with the multimeter probe. If the multimeter probe is too short, unfold two paperclips and hold each touching the probes and use the paperclips as probe extensions.
4. The reading on the multimeter should show about 1K Ohms (+- 10%). If it shows a very high resistance or infinity (i.e. no reading), then the sensor is dead. Make sure you are correctly touching the conductors within the connector, noting that it is far back and deep. If you are getting P1318, this imples that one of the sensor is shorted, so when probing the sensors, you are looking for a sensor that is showing very low resistance ( <<1K Ohms).
My problem was with the sensor in the front left wheel. So here is the fix to remove the sensor.
The fix:
Materials:
1 Medium flat-head screwdriver
1 Large flat-head screwdriver
1 Electric Multimeter with ability to measure resistance
1 Replacement sensor (~$420 from dealer, arrg! I got mine in Hollywood, CA.)
1. (skip this if dead sensor is in the rear wheel) Turn the front wheel towards the opposite side of the busted sensor; i.e. if bad sensor is on the front left wheel, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. this will make it easier to access the sensor.
2. Jack up the wheel and remove wheel. This will make it easier to access, you can do it without remove the wheel, but it is more difficult.
3. Locate the sensor.
4. Remove clip holding break line from mud shield using a large flat-head screwdriver.
5. Clean out all dirt around the sensor. You want to make sure no dirt falls into the wheel joint.
6. With a flat-head screwdriver, ply out the sensor (sensor has a little lip for the screwdriver to catch). the sensor does not have any screw holding it in. Push over the break line if it is in the way.
7. Once the sensor is out, pull out the whole unit and wiring that is connected to the sensor.
To install the new sensor, do the reverse.
My explanation of why the code initially came in and out was because the sensor started to fail and the internal connection inside the sensor was coming loose. Once it completely failed, then the error code will not go away. My guess is that it would be difficult to determine which of the sensor is bad if it does work and intermittently starts to fail.
Thanks discoweb.org!
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