Drivetrain suggestions for Series Build, what do yall think?

I'll tell you this right now, any one of those transmissions/transfercase combination with the D60 rear will result in an extremely short rear drive shaft in an 88" wheel base. Even lengthening tp 90" will not be enough. Just something to seriously consider.

You can build anything you can dream up, just make sure you take your budget, double, then triple it. Might as well do the same with your build time.

Or you could go the Toyota axles that are already the right width. There is plenty of after market upgrades for them with gearing choices. Instead of re-inventing the wheel.

Stretch the wheelbase and trim the rear wheel wells back.

I suggested neither

I'm pretty sure if he doesn't want to lengthen the wheel base or the body that cutting the body is not an option. I think that is what PC is going for.

You are gonna need wheelbase. 88" is not ideal. I do believe the 103~107" is where its at. A wee bit longer if you are going with >40" tires.

You should probably consider building a tube frame chassis and then bolting a few modified rover body panels on it. Thats about the best way to go. Also another thing to consider, most, if not all of the big buggies these days run automatic transmission. You should heavily consider this. If you are going for the giant-ass rock crawler, then look into this.

What year ford front axle you've got? If you plan on using the stock rover chassis, its no good since its a driver drop instead of passenger. The 14 bolt is bulletproof.

The NP 203/205, while bulletproof, is HEAVY AS HELL. I think dry the doubler weighs something like 160 lbs. Not to mention its long as all get out. Be prepared for this. Of course do your homework. From what I've seen, you can probably get a used atlas II for a few hundred more dollars than the doubler kit.

No doubt, the chevy 6.0 is a heck of a piece of machinery. But consider the Vortec V6. Lighter, puts out all the power you want, and saves drivetrain length. Also they are common.

4 link? Of course! Thats the only way to go. If you go 4 link front, be prepared to go full hydro steering. Not that its a bad thing, but something else to factor into the equation.

Go onto pirate and look at other buildups. There is pretty much a set pattern to follow for a good setup. However, I will say this: if you plan on running something like a 42" tire, go ahead with rockwell axles and rear steer. I saw that in action two weekends ago and it is THE SHIT. Absolutely awesome.

Hacking up a new old stock SIIa bulkhead is a capital offense.

Ron said:

Hacking up a new old stock SIIa bulkhead is a capital offense.

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X2!!! I've been looking for a good bulkhead for months.

The fj 40 axles is what is under mine they are the same width so its almost plug and play. Not sure about the mini truck but its just a matter of measruing them. Currnetly I am keeping the rover 2.25 but when that goes who knows. All I have left to do on the swap is rear break lines, drive shafts back from the shop and hook the steering up. If you would like to see some pics let me know.

You could use toyota stuff- FJ40 55, 60 or truck stuff, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. Here is one guy's idea of how to do it

http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/


I think with the goodies you have on hand you could do better even if you do stick with a 88-~92" wheelbase.

For a low lowrange you could do a combo like this:
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/

Wow. Sounds like you've already got most of it figured out. If you are already setup for the 6.0, then go for it. No reason to tear it back down. Also good thinking on the power steering box. I am going tomorrow to pick up my 109 from a power steering conversion using the scout box. Good stuff.

On the transmission, here should be your two main factors: what directly bolts up with no modification and which is the shortest? Go with that order. Adapter plates just add $$$ to the project. Both of those transmissions are similar.

Transfer case: go with the D300. Should bolt up to both of those transmissions and has correct passenger drop. Both transmissions have that super low so don't worry right now about doublers. It'll be strong. The only suggestion I have is possibly twin stick. Kits for this are plenty. The 203 is only good as a doubler for the 205, and that setup is WAY LONG and WAY HEAVY. Too much for your application, most likely.

Axles, I don't think that ford is a passenger drop. If its a 60 with kingpins and came from a 78 or 79 F350, then you can get some serious $$$ for it. You can find a chevy passenger drop since the driver drops are prized by jeepers (god damn jeepers). Just make sure it has kingpins and you are good to go. DO NOT waste your time with a 44. With that large of a tire and that big engine, it'll eat up 760 u-joints and shafts. As for full width vs. narrow, just throw them under the truck and see if you like them. Might be for you, might not. Just make sure your front axle is wider than your rear axle. This helps with turning.

The toy axles...dunno. Need to look into them. I just know that on every trail ride it always seems like some toyota is blowing up a birf. Always. I do not know about upgrades but the stock joints can't handle 35s on a regular basis.

LR Max said:

The toy axles...dunno. Need to look into them. I just know that on every trail ride it always seems like some toyota is blowing up a birf. Always. I do not know about upgrades but the stock joints can't handle 35s on a regular basis.

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Simple solution:


Absolutely do this with Toyota axles:
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

or you'll end up with this: