Recent content by discostew

It’s not that bad. This is a 4.2 and honestly the 5.0 is easier.

Yeah the cams are locked in that pic and the timing tool is in the crank sensor. It’s a car I got cheap cause a friend lost interest in it. He put a used head on it and can’t remember what cams he used. But I think that wheel is in the slot wrong.

Hey I finally got back on this Range. I’m having to take it all the way down to the intake camshaft. This engine uses a camshaft reluctor wheel that bolts on the end of the camshaft. I believe it’s on the camshaft 180 deg. out. If I’m wrong this has been a horrific waste of time. But I’m about...

I would do this. Pre bent brake lines are something Rover seems pretty good at and the price is pretty reasonable. Your going to have to straighten out any bending from shipment. I use the soft flexible pipe sometimes and haven't had any problems with that either. I would order a bunch of the...

I don’t know if you need to do that. Usually in cases like this Land Rover updates the part for what ever reason. Then because they don’t come out and say what the difference is in the bracket (maybe nothing) they sell all the old stock to Atlantic British. You’re probably buying a part that was...

What do you mean by not a common part? There’s a TSB about it. Guys put on just the idler pulley. But it comes with the bracket in my world. Why not just wait till the alternator fails before you replace that? Maybe it won’t?

For sequence always just go from the inside and work your way to the ends. If you look at any sequence they generally just squeeze it from center to the ends.

I have a 2013 LR2. My wife likes it and I’m ok with it. I think they do a good job in a lot of snow with Blizzaks on them. I run Conti extreme contacts (DWS) in the summer. This damn car has had every expensive repair these things a known for. I mean EVERY ONE of them. Right after the warranty...

I’ll see if I can help you with some service info. Are you looking for the alternator replacement? Or are you interested in the front cover reseal too?

You can usually see the check valve. It’s worth a shot to at least to inspect it. If the filter allows oil to leak down it would act like your describing

I just use Topix. That might be the idler but the one I use comes with the bracket. The bracket bolts to the side of the engine above the alternator and the pulley sticks out the front. As long as it Haden’s failed you could get away with just the pulley like that. When it fails the bracket...

It’s a goofy size. I can’t remember. I’ve used an adapter that goes on in place of the oil filter before. It was a great tool that a friend had. If you find one post it up, I would buy one.

This is what I’ve been thinking. What oil filer are you running?

If you can get a lift that would help a ton. I’m spoiled and I would really not want to do it on my back. While your in there I would consider replacing the idler that sits over by the alternator and has its own bracket. They fail a lot and the belt flys off and the vehicle overheats

If it’s the flex plate it’s going to make more noise when the truck is idling in gear. So it has more load on it. They start out as a ticking noise. Small exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold sound about the same.