Back story,
I just rebuilt the top of the engine from the head gaskets all the way up. A lot of new parts including new O2 sensors, coil packs, spark plugs, cables, gaskets and more. Cranked the vehicle and it runs beautiful everyday for two weeks. Now for the last week it is throwing codes...
I have been thinking about this route. Do I need to do anything to the transmission or transfer case? I figure there is enough flex to pull the motor mounts and lower it 3 or 4 inches. If I need more than that, maybe I could drop the transmission brace.
I ended up using the 16 mm. I couldn't tell a real difference between the 5/8 and 16 mm. I have found that the impact sockets are the best to use on the heads. The regular sockets are soft and give out after a few head bolts are pulled out.
The extra set of hands would have probably solved this issue from the beginning. It is almost impossible to hold the socket firmly against the bolts as is, but having it shoved up against the firewall as well makes it nigh unto impossible. Thus , where I ended up rounding it.
Yea, this was the best configuration I tried. I will try this again tonight with the bolt extractor on the end of it instead of the 6 point. I have removed the rocker arms already.
So, I am changing out the head gaskets on my 2002 Discovery ii. All of the head bolts broke free except the one closest to the firewall and down next to the manifold. Instead it is such an awkward angle to get the socket in there that I rounded the bolt slightly when the breaker bar and socket...
Light on the shifter does not stay on. I am looking at the fuel door wiring mentioned. The other thing I will look at is the switch on the door because the dome lights do not always turn off when the door closes. I know, I know a dome light will drain the battery if left on. What I mean is that...
There are a few rare individuals who love the P38 model. They are like finding a four leaf clover. I have to say as a vehicle, the P38 sure rides nice and the engine has always felt very nicely matched to the transmission. In other words, it seems to have plenty of get up and go and shifts...
I appreciate the thoughts. Alternator bench test is Good, Engine ground is good, Wiring on the back of the alternator connections are rebuilt and repaired. Everything I have looked at wiring wise in that circuit is good. There is one wire on top of the engine which connects into the coolant line...
Alright, I have posted this on eBay with a opening bid of $500 and a buy it now price of $2750. Any takers? The motor and transmission are worth this in parts alone if someone loves the P38 model.
Issue:
Fuse 31 in engine passenger compartment fuse block keeps blowing.
Diagnosis and Repair Process:
Some may give me issue with the fact that some steps are repeated when it seems as though it is unnecessary. I say, measure twice cut once. Or in this case test twice, plug, unplug, cut or...
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