Recent content by mearstrae

Whole can of worms... Bad grounds (earths)? Parasitic draw? loose wire? How to explain the many test procedures? What test equipment is needed? Nothing but questions.

A few years back i had a problem with an intake manifold also. Turned out it was slightly warped and had a very slight twist in it. Caused all sorts of weird problems before I found the problem. Once I got the mounting flanges back flat and square it was fine.

What I have used several times to simplify the wiring part is use a two prong trailer style pig tail. Then you can just un-plug the shuttle valve module if (when) you have to change it again. I use a solder type butt connector on the green/yellow wire and a crimp ring terminal on the ground side...

Yes, towards the rear passenger door up on inside of the frame. And, it can be a bit of a bear to get out. But, possibly there is a hose that's cracked or something. Check things out before buying another pump set-up.

If you're lucky (sort of...) you may find a broken wire. Otherwise you may need a new pump. On my '04 I found that all the wires near the plug were broken, a simple re=spice was all that was needed. Don't know how such a thing happened, but there you are.

I couldn't reuse the head, it was cut too deep, probably .030 or more. Could have cut both heads to match and jacked up the compression ratio a bit.

My wife's Range Rover LWB blew the head gasket in front of number one cylinder. It blew to the outside, so no exhaust gas in the coolant or any other sign. It did sound like a Sopwith Camel in the end, spitting fire. And it did etch a groove in the cylinder head, a kind of flame cut.

I thought I'd get a nice four row from FleaBay (yes, I know). BIG mistake, not one hole lined up, the base pins were off by an inch and the sensor hole was threaded for 1/4" pipe thread. Not even close, doesn't cover it... The seller would admit no fault (really?). Thanks China (the seller...

There are several coolant connections on the intake manifold. Cylinder head coolant crossover, intake air heater block, upper radiator hose. It would be best to have the manifold reinstalled for any meaningful pressure test. If you manage clamp off all the hoses to these areas you will probably...

I'm using live data from my Bearmach scanner.

I should have said it is a D2, 4.6L. Anything's worth a try, I have a bad feeling it's in the wiring harness or the ECU itself.

Having a strange problem with bank A and B upstream O2 sensors. Bank A is at "0" volts, bank B is so erratic I can't get a fix on the voltage. Downstream sensors are both working fine. I changed out both upstream sensors (Denso), bank A had a bad harness plug that I changed out. No change at...

Never, ever, lube the back of rod and main bearings, The main and rod bearings have little notches to keep them in place. If if you turn the engine over, in the direction of the notches with a wrench, the bearings should slide out. You'll never be able to change the rod bolts without taking the...

Sounds like you might have an "XYZ" switch problem. It's located on the left side of the transmission, at the end of the shifter cable. Like a neutral safety switch. (You're probably thinking, "What the heck is a neutral safety switch?") If it's not properly aligned or there's a problem with the...

I had installed a stainless Disco 1 brush bar on my wife's '95 RRC. The only thing different was the bolts were 7/16" instead of 1/2". It did place the upper bar pretty close to the hood. Not sure if the earlier RR's were similar.