Recent content by ryanjl

It's not overly difficult. The top nuts are the hardest part. You always see the recommendation to soak those nuts in PB Blaster the days leading up to the project. I don't live in a super rust prone area, so never really do that. I did not do it on the passenger side and it was a PITA...

I run 265.65.18s, so I can technically still drive on my bumpstops. As Blue said, however, saying you can do it and actually doing it are two different things. A company called Green Oval Experience used to make an emergency kit you could use to manually air up the struts. I think they no...

I have read they are valved such that the valve automatically closes if they get down to a certain pressure. For example, if an air line ruptures. So dropping to the bumps with Arnott bags may still leave you with more room than dropping to the bumps with OEM bags. Not sure if I've ever seen...

When I finally moved to 18" wheels a year ago, I was surprised at the limited options available for either a 265/65/18 or 285/60/18 tire with a load range E. At Discount Tire, those options were: BFG All Terrain Cooper Discoverer AT3 and Discoverer Maxx Nitto Exo Grappler, Terra Grappler...

Had the issue a few months ago on my LR4. Fob would work; handle switch would not. The wiring from the handle switch into the main rear hatch loom is really thin and brittle. Mine had somehow lost connection. Diagnosed it by buying a really cheep switch off Amazon...

There's a Land Rover service bulletin (attached) that lists the affected vin ranges. The original timing chain guides were just a tensioner pressing against the bare aluminum guide. Over time, the tensioner piston would begin to wear a hole in the guide, to the point where the guide wasn't...

Just a point of reference: the timing chain guides and tensioners were updated in late 2012, so a few 2012 models and all 2013 models should have the updated timing chain guides and tensioners from the factory.