Recent content by snorlax

Identify the LR part number that fits your vehicle. Looks like with or without air injection is one determining factor. Genuime LR part can be purchased for $460, about 2x price of non-genuine. But fits right and built to LR specs. If that’s more than you want to spend, see what’s out there...

Simple things you could try before pulling and replacing the starter: Verify battery ground has clean and secure contact with the body. An old timer helped me out of the same problem once. He explained that carbon can build up in the starter, so bang on it a few times with a hammer to break...

yes. If you can weld, I'd say you could do it for less $. Not being a welder, I worked with Luke at Fourtracks and he came up with a solution for both side and rear awning mounts for my D1 SD rack. fourtreks@hotmail.com

I seem to recall that blink test will work up to MY 95 being OBD 1.

It has been on 2 surco gutter mounted crossbars. Do you want pics of how the tent mounts?

SOLD Rooftop tent used seven times. Extras purchased for tent: *changing room *upgraded heavy duty cover *ladder extension for trucks with a lift $750 (new shipped is $1,095) local pick up in SF Bay Area since it is $200-300 to ship it. http://www.racktents.com/Tents.html comparison...

Great technical posts. I learned a lot. The rear TT on my 95 D1, 5 spd made a huge difference. I purchased the TT in a reman diff and 4.11s from Bill at GBR. He spent a significant amount of time talking through the options so I feel like I made the right choice. One thing beyond price was...

This happend to me after the two shafts slid apart. I tried to put them together without realizing that they only fit one way. usually the zerks are lined up or 180 degrees off (if I remember correctly). To seperate I used a bunch of duct tape to protect the shaft and used small sledge hammer...