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Um,......the valley pan IS the intake gasket. Were the bolts like finger tight at the back? Make sure you get the end seals with the valley pan. While you are there you might want to do the valve covers, but that's about it besides the plenum adapter gasket. If you have any doubts as to what...

You don't NEED to do the head gaskets. The manifold isn't that big of a job. It may be a good idea to do them if you have really overheated the engine, but if you just had the coolant leak and haven't had an issue up until now I would do the manifold and drive it. Sounds like you got it really...

Intake manifold gasket. The bolts are probably finger tight, but at this point you need to do the whole valley pan gasket as it has probably blown the gasket out around the coolant ports.

Follow the link I posted and look at "completed scambaits" for Cole v2.0. Actually and of the ones involving a "Cole" are epic.

Turn and pull, probably varnish on the cam keeping it from coming out. Maybe spray some carb clean on the cam behind the bearings to break down the varnish. This is all assuming you took the lifters out. Last time I saw this question posted the guy didn't even have the intake off it.

I was hoping for pics of him using his HiLift jack to snap the front bumper off the crush cans.

http://thescambaiter.com/

Anything with Bosch engine management used them, VW, Volvo, etc. Maybe NAPA carries the retainers, I know they have the connectors.

I think 2 Rovers would just be added stress, worrying the running one will break down while chasing the parts to fix the already broken one.

Pulley number is above. Bearing is a 6203-2RSJ.

Buy a new pulley, AZ has them for like $18. Duralast 231081 is the part number. You could also just replace the bearing in the one you have. I don't anticipate you limping very far with it like that.

If it is true we should stop accepting Mexican currency, and start using Mexican currency for any benefits we provide to illegals. They can spend it when they go home.

He said it jerks and jolts when turning. I think crown14 may be right on here. The PO probably pulled the front shaft off to hide a wasted CV.

One goes to the gear selector switch, the other goes directly to ground. The alarm unit just interrupts the switches path to ground to inhibit cranking.

Yep.

The ECU needs to be sync'd to the alarm unit. My experience was similar, plug it in and it fired right up. I actually drove the truck about 30 miles, pulled into the yard shut it down and.........no start. If the CEL isn't lit when you turn the key to the on position before cranking you won't be...

Just buy another Rover. For $6K you should be able to come up with a decent truck with reasonable miles on it. You already know how to fix everything that goes wrong on it.

Yeah, it's amazing how the scenario evolves when the whole story comes out. Like Musky said, diagnosis is difficult enough without having the vehicle in your presence. It's made more difficult when the symptoms aren't described accurately. I'm also thinking ckps in this case, time will tell.

I see. This "Mike", did he request you call him so he could walk you through it? Just curious..... Since you killed the battery trying to start it nix what I said, either you lost spark or fuel. You are probably looking at one of 3 possible issues here. MAF, crank sensor, or fuel pump. If you...

When the truck died did you keep trying to start it and drain the battery, or did you try to crank it and it just started clicking? If you didn't run the battery down trying to get it started there is a good possibility the alternator failed.