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http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/5325824079.html If got a number of LR3 parts for sell. Would prefer to sell local. Jim

Definitely worse cold and smooths out/almost disappears once warm. I've tried the spray carb cleaner trick looking for vacuum leaks and found nothing. The IDDtool either doesn't have or I can't find fuel trim. I pulled the TB and cleaned it. I've run various fuel injector cleaner through...

I'm still chasing down my rough idle when cold. I have the IDDtool and can read live values. I'd love to go through and start testing sensors. I can't seem to find a document that let's me know what each sensor should read. I had a digital copy of the RAV that I lost in a computer melt...

Expect it to be a Rover. Mine has never left my stranded, but it's by no means been issue or stress free. If you can't pay cash for it and easily cover the cost of potential repairs, pass on it. Jim

It's probably the housing itself. I had mine crack and leak similar to yours.

I've been running the coil conversion for a little over a year. I made the switch after my second air strut went 20 plus miles out in the sticks. I didn't do it to save money as much as remove potential future issues. At this point I couldn't tell you how the ride compares to the air bags.

A long awaited update. I bought an OTC set up and ran three cans of Berryman B12 through it on two different occasions with no perceivable difference. Not sure where to go from here.

Here you go, pics. You can clearly see how the center section separated. There was no LR number on the new mount from AB, but from everything I can find online it's an LR mount. Jim

AB has one on it's way to me. I'll post up picks of the busted one and let everyone now if the mount is an LR part. Jim

Called Atlantic British and they are going to try and figure out where to get one, or if they can. I'm thinking its got to be the same upper mount used on the overseas coil trucks doesn't it? I can get that through my local LR Dealer for $70. Anybody out there know for sure?

I do. I'm running the AB 2in coil conversion. I guess the separated part is actually the rubber isolater part of the upper strut mount. Jim

I would agree, you're going to be 13,000 into at truck that is about at the point where it will start nickel and diming you to death. I'd like to add that my truck was issue free until 100,000 or so, and since then it's been like every other LR I've owned. Always broke in some fashion.

My buddy came over today and we got it figured out, I hope. Turns out the upper strut bushing (10) in the attachment has separated. There is only play in the set-up about half way through the suspensions travel. At that point you can move the top of the strut around.

I'm going to pull the sway bar assembly entirely off tomorrow and go from there. I'll report back. Jim

They are roughly two years old. The other day I cut up some heater hose and made something similar to the shims Land Rover used to sell. Basically goes between the bushing and the frame so the bar can't bush out the back of the bushing and hit the frame. Didn't stop the knock. Is the bar...

I've gone over every bolt numerous times. After the tie rod ends I had it aligned and asked the tech to look, but he found nothing. I'm sure he didn't use a chassis ear though. I'll go through the rear suspension this weekend and see what I can find.

Everything but the endlinks I just put on. Going over a speed bump, pot hole.etc. Wash boards really make a racket. I replaced the lower arms due to bad ball joints and the knock that made. This knock is not near as "solid" as the bad ball joints were, or the knock of bad LCA bushings. I'm...

No dice. New front links and still knocks. I also went through all transfer case, diff mounts, etc.

The links aren't even two years old, but I'll give replacing them a shot.

Not the CV, or brake related. I'll check the shaft, but there are no vibrations at all.