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My truck does the same thing on occasion - seems to only happen at speeds over 50 and just momentary loss of power but no RPM change. It doesn't happen regularly and I haven't looked into it yet. I guess I'm only posting to maybe make you feel better that it isn't something you've done...

Broke mine up good and plastic weld job looks drunkenly done. Piece that sits beneath the passenger front headlamp and turn signal in OXFORD BLUE. Slides into front grill. Thanks, DIIB

Broke mine up good and plastic weld job looks drunkenly done. Piece that inserts into front grill on passenger side and sits below the pass front headlight and turn signal...I'm only really wanting to buy it if you have OXFORD BLUE (the dark blue) because I don't want to match paint, just buy...

Interested in the tail light and bumper light guards. Email sent.

I've got the same issue on my '97...only does it after truck is run for a while (fully heated) and then started again within 20 minutes. Have you tested or replaced your Engine Fuel Temp Sensor? (in fuel rail driver's side) I haven't yet, but that is next for me.

Hah, the irony here is that I'm more likely to spam your email with pics of wieners then ever do any business with you because of thread-poaching like this. Maybe I'm not the norm? P.S. Where's my bumper?

Add the water pump to your list of possibilities.

Interested, sent email.

Not yet. I'm hoping to do that among many of the other suggestions and testing this weekend. Bunch of crap has come up (as life does) and my D1's rotoflex cracked pretty good to distract me too. Will report back when I go through everything, thanks for all the suggestions and help diagnosing.

I got quoted $100. Used ECU $75, so $175 should the ECU actually be my culprit.

Actually the truck runs, just quite rich (170 miles/tank). Thanks for the option, but that would most likely be more costly then a dealer re-program.

Thanks PT, that is unfortunate. Looks like I'm going to have to get to know my multi-meter and test everything possible...I don't want to pay a dealer to install and re-program a ECU until I know that is the problem.

Thanks for all the help so far, this forum is by far the best when it comes to experienced answers and guessing, always entertaining too. I think I'm going to go ahead and try a good/used ECU since I can get one for cheap, and go from there. Anyone swapped one? Will I need to possible flash it...

Will do this to.

Well, yes, many stopped with "must be the ECU". However, everyone with any reputable experience tells me, and I quote, "I've never seen (or heard of) a Land Rover ECU going bad", and totally dismiss the ECU. And since the only local source capable with these electronics is $150/hr and isn't...

No, I've never used either of items mentioned and will need help to do so, but can get local help. Anything in particular I should look for or need to know when doing this? Thanks again to all.

Yes, new Rover MAF. Not sure about vacuum leaks, how do I go about checking for those? (sorry I'm a rookie at best)

Yes, checked for continuity and all 3 wires checked out (the 4th is power which is good too). And yes, not only did I clean the connectors each time, I also zip-tied them up and out of the way of oil AND wrapped them up in electrical tape after the 3rd time. This was all done months ago, and...

I don't know, but I'm pretty sure mine is set to a market that needs input from the O2's..hence the codes and running dang rich. I would love to have an ECU set to that market though, I'd happily remove the O2's and cats.

Atlantic British for the first couple sets (good customer service sent out two sets), and then British Parts of Utah O2's with the orange connector. Also, I swapped in known-good-working O2's from another D2...same story.