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I had a few of my doors sticking, one by one a few weeks ago. I was afraid I was in for swapping the mechanisms, but found that a little grease on the latching mechanism and post was all that was needed.

That is ridiculous. I encountered a shop like that once. They are out of business now and good riddance! I hope you didn't give him any money for the privilege of storing your truck outside.

hey, that is nice a quick! thanks for the update. I'll give them a try sometime soon.

So far I've always had good luck ordering things from the UK from various suppliers. Hope it goes smoothly. Yes, LR Direct seems to have a very good selection of parts, although I have never ordered from them. I look forward to hearing how they are to deal with.

Here are a few ideas Rovers North has the best price that I have found, but maybe this has the wrong connector- says it is for engines up to ’89. Might be worth a caL: http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=ETC6443 Atlantic British says they will be getting more in Jan...

When I did mine, my swivel pin bearings needed replacing on one side because water had entered into the housing and made a mess of them. the other side probably would have been ok, but I figured if I am replacing the one and in there anyway, I might as well do it all.

x2 on the although I ordered one from Britain , also for about the same price. The only difference with this one was that it fits a 1/2" drive and since I didn't have an adaptor to 3/4 at the time, I didn't have to get one. And I could use my torque wrench with it. And it felt like a...

Ha! You are right, I was missing that "eh", eh?

I can't argue with that!

And I also found it a good time to upgrade the brake calipers and rotors to the D90 version. bought through Will. He was a great help.

I didn't even bother grinding the outside of my old races down- just hammered them in too and after the new race was set, tapped the old ones back out with a punch or small chisel. Seemed to work ok.

tps and vss are both possibilities and crossed my mind as potential culprits. my vss went a couple of years ago and that would cause the truck to die, but it was much more random than this. this is very precise in when the truck cuts out. I think I have a spare MAFS in my parts box from my...

thanks guys- I did load test the battery a few weeks ago and it seemed fine. It is only a year old. and turns the engine over smartly. I will check the alternator output though. MAF sounds like a very likely place to look. Cody, your symptoms sound very similar- almost identical.

So, I have been driving a bit more and have narrowed down my symptoms a bit. The engine power will consistently cut out at 1700 rpm, but if I allow the rpms to fall below 1250rpm, the engine will regain its power. This is very consistent. As I mentioned earlier, when the engine loses power...

I had thought of this because I have had it fail before. but I just replaced it two years ago, so I was hoping that wasn't the problem. However, if it failed once, it can fail again. I forgot one other symptom- when the power cuts out, if I keep the accelerator pedal down, but put in the...

cap and rotor are a very good start- thanks! I missed them completely in my diagnostic thought process. They are more than a couple of years old, so it is probably high time to replace them anyway.

My truck is acting up and I can?t figure out what the problem is. Sporadically, she loses power when driving. She will idle just fine when this happens, but no power to push me forward. When this happened a few times last week, I could get power back by pushing hard on the accelerator and I...

Yes, it can be a nice simple system, and was offered as such on some of the early basic model British units. Hence the nice diagrams in the manual. I removed my modulator a few years ago and have enjoyed confident braking ever since. I know some on the site here feel it is a step back and...

Aaah. nice. thanks.

what is "roving tracks toyota conversion"?