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Could also be a front wheel hub.

Driveline strenght is marginal enough as is, stock axle gearing and brakes are not designed for 33 inch tires.

Question is....Is it blowing cold or not ?!?

Used that technique and it worked great. Job done !!! Thanks for the tip.

Guys, as the title says, I have a 2000 D2 with a leaking rear axle. I need the size bolt that fits in the centralising peg in order to remove it and perform the seal change job. Thanks, Steph

I ordered mine from rovers north. part no. RNI 303 The 1999-2002 and 2003-2004 don't have the same part number.

Here you go, 2000 D2

Thanks, I'll look it up.

All right, I know what caps you're talking about. Are these the shredder valves ??? and they could be leaking ?? can they be replaced, and or fixed ??? May sound stupid, but could plumbing silicone tape be used under the cap on the thread to reduce or stop the leak ??? Cause unless I'm wrong...

Where is that shrader valve located ??

I don't have rear A/C. The pressure was held for about 20 minutes and the pressure gauge never moved. Going there tonight to have him check it again.

No ??? A/C lines near the left rear spring seat ??? All he did was a pressure test and no pressure loss meant no leak, so he just filled the system and it worked for sometime before it started blowing warm ( not A/C cold) again.

My D2 with the 4.0 gets about 450 kms before the light turns on at a steady 110-120 km/h. I think it adds up to somewhere around 15-16L/100kms

Guy,earlier this spring, my A/C wasn't blowing cold air anymore. Didn't know if it had ever been serviced, I went to my mech and found that I was way low in r134 I think it's called. He did a pressure test and found no leaks. Added new gas and it was blowing ice cold again. Well, a month...

How new or old are your brakes ???

Don't try to shortcut this Bro !! Get the spring seats at the dealer along with the bolts, and then get the rear springs that match your front ones. I guess you've already checked the fuse for the SLS and the connections ???? I got rid of this crappy option the very second it became...

Congrats on a job well done.

Is this a new noise ??? or it's been there ever since you got the truck ??? Changing the belt is logical and cheap. If you have ACE, the pump make a similar noise. Refresh the fluid and make sure its at full level. Other than that, I'm not sure what else would make that noise.

For some reason....I knew it :) I'll order the t-stat and have it installed by my bud when he does the heater core flush. Thanks ptschram for giving the little backpush I needed to go ahead with both solutions.:victory:

Alright, as an update, I've been on the forementionned trip and all went well. To clear things up a bit, when idling, I do still get some heat, but just not as hot as when driving. Now for my last question on this subject, I'm under the impression that the thermostat stays partially open...