Firstly, the correct/matching flexplate/flywheel assy must be used, and the overall trans is 15mm longer which drives a few minor issues.
Shifter cable could re-used as-is. Just needed a bit of an adjustment.
Transfer case mounts needed to be modified both sides to shift rearwards in the vehicle.
Trans to transfer case pencil brace needed to be extended. Dipstick tube bracket reprofiled to meet the bellhousing fixing point.
Output shaft of the trans needed to be shortened by 4cm, and the shaft redrilled and tapped (to accept the trans to transfer case adaptor shaft and fixing bolt). The circlip and bearing collar also had to be removed (behind the park pawl).
P38 XYZ switch used for neutral start (inhibit) and gear-sensing for the CompuShift.
Oil cooler lines needed to be modified (the trans-end is a different size and type fitting). I cut off the P38 ends and brazed them into my D1 lines.
All of the above was no great drama. It just chewed up a bit more time as I had access to plasma-cutters, welders, oxy, cutting and grinding tools and the basics you have in a proper mechanics workshop.
I will need to shorten the rear prop shaft by 15mm - I've estimated there is juuuuust enough plunge left (probably?) but it's pretty marginal and squashes the rubber boot a bit currently.
I have ordered a 15mm front prop-shaft spacer to get the front shaft back to the correct length.
I will wire my existing reverse light circuit into the Compushift dedicated output (I have no reverse lights currently).
I will wire my speedometer into the Compushift TOSS output (my speedo/odo were always inaccurate due to tyres, etc. and I can get a perfect signal out of the Compushift). This one I don't have to do, but why not?
