93 LWB Features

[Greg French]

I'm about to buy my first Classic- A 93 LWB. I read that it has rear traction control. Can you tell me a little about it?

Also, the one I am buying has the air suspension removed, and the AB Coil kit installed. Is it worth re-installing the air suspension, or is it just one more thing that can/will break on the trail. From what I have read, it looks like a neat thing, but something that could be a PITA once the novelty wears off.
How does the suspension compare to my Disco (97 D1 with 3" RTE)

Thanks

 

[jmonsrvr]

we thought about putting the coils on our 93 lwb, but the air suspension kics ass. yeah some say it is prone to breaking down. but if you are anal about it and keep it in good shape then your covered (knock on wood).
besides we use our 95 disco for any serious off road trips. the lwb does the mellow long distance trips. we do take it off roading but only on moderate trails were we wont be articulating to much or to extreme.

just make sure the air bags are solid and periodically check the air suspension componenets. we have had ours for over two years now and the previous owner took real good care of the air system and to date we have had no problems...

 

[agro1]

just make sure the air bags are solid and periodically check the air suspension componenets.

Sure, you can "inspect" your airbags, not much good that will do when one starts leaking on the trail. But do you know how to inspect your pressure switches, thermal switches, compressor, ride height sensors, etc ?? I doubt it, as these are items that either work or they fail - there is no way to tell when they are showing signs of "fatigue". And when one of them does fail, the EAS shuts down and your screwed. Check out this thread:

http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1760

I highly suggest dumping any air suspension and going to a full coil suspension - one less thing you'll have to worry about while out on the trail. And trust me, if your not worried about your EAS, you're fooling yourself.

 

[jmonsrvr]

yeah yeah yeah....

 

[Greg French]

Ok...I thought so...No air suspension.
How about the rear ETC? How does it work?...does it work? Is it prone to breakage? I am used to my D1 with only the CDL.

 

[Blueboy]

Greg,

The rear ETC works well and as its part of the ABS system, as long as that works it all works! Of course, like any electrical part especially on that old of a RR, the ABS needs a new sensor every once in awhile.

While the ETC is a cool deal, the RR has a B-W transfer case so your power isn't 1/2 and 1/2 like with a CDL. That limits the effectiveness.

If you ever decide to lock the rear, change the box to a LT230 as without it, the rear and/or front locker(s) aren't as good as with a locked center diff vs the B-W.

In snow though, the B-W is very cool as the power transfer back and forth front to rear. Very solid feeling on snow covered roads.

Jaime

 

[Greg French]

So there is no CDL on it?

 

[sven]

Its automatic as opposed to manual on the disco.

 

[Greg French]

So if the ABS has a fault, I have no 4wd?
I know one of the ABS sensoer is bad. Does that turn off the whole system?
Can I put CDL on it?
What is that selector knob that looks like the CDL knob on my disco? (Note...I haven't got the truck yet...just looking at the pictures)

 

[rover4x4]

the high-low (front to back) for the t-case. No front back side to side (diff lock) like the LT 230

 

[Blueboy]

Its automatic as opposed to manual on the disco.

Not really actually. While the B-W does a nice job in most conditions, if you are locked frt and rear, there are conditions where no power gets to the front so you can't move.

A B-W can not lock the center diff..

Greg, if the ABS has a fault, then more than likely you will also see a fault light for the ETC. Both lights should be on.

You'll always have power going to the front and rear as that is the job of the transfer box. What you will not have with an ABS fault is ABS working for your brakes and the ETC as it depends upon the sensors to by functioning.

The cool thing about the RR ABS is below 10mph, it is shut off. So, going down a steep hill is controllable vs in the Disco where your ABS is always on. There are some threads on this topic in D-Web.

Also keep in mind what some think is a bad sensor is actually the sensor coming unseated. Make sure its firmly in place. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.

No doubt they do go bad, yet, possibly in this case maybe not - if you're lucky! Once one went in mine, I just replaced all of them as it was just a matter of time.

I'm getting the impression you haven't bought this RR yet. If this is so, there ane MANY items to be careful of in this year of RR. Also check out the past threads here on this topic.

I had a '93RR which basically saved my life in an accident. Currently redoing a '94LWB as I feel they are the best all-around LR you can have.

Good luck,

Jaime

 

[t77911s]

I was under the impression that the viscous actually locked/unlocked the center diff in the BW transfer cases, just curious...Regarding your accident, and this may not be the correct thread to discuss, but I have always been under the impression that the RRC's were very safe vehicles, but when you look at crash test for the early disco which is basically the same frame, they are rated very low, any opinions on this, maybe a new thread for safety discussion's?

 

[Ian95rrc]

Quoting the 95 RRC workshop manual "A differential lock is not necessary as this function is automatically performed by the viscous coupling unit." Again they later say, "Its function is to limit the maximum difference in speed between the two shafts, with the effect of automatically locking the differential."

I suppose Land Rover could be wrong about their own design though....

I'm not saying the BW is the best offroad. Yes, it only really shines in the snow. However it does have the effect of being an automatic center diff lock.

So I'd like to know in what situation off-road would the VC not function? Sure it might take some wheel spin to get it to lock but eventually the VC does the job in my experience.

 

[Greg French]

What about the front axle?

 

[Blueboy]

crashes and B-W

on the crash of my RR, I hit a car making a turn directly in front of me. he turned left and I basically went over his front part of the car. the force was such that the driver's side wheel was pushed back under my seat box. numerious suspension pieces were broken aloung with the ARB, etc. etc..

I opened the door and got out. The other car had the hood, both fenders, top of the engine torn off and the guy had 101 stitches in his face and can't see well out of his right eye. I hit the car at 45mph.

You can see a pic of the RR in ECR's website listed under the customer comments. scroll down and you'll see it.
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on the B-W, it does not totally "lock-up" like the LT230. classic example on how it really doesn't work is if you're on a rock ledge like I was in Moab. Locked frt and rear and from a dead stop, only the rear was getting power. both rear wheels were spinning as the locker did its job, yet, no power went to the front to pull me over.

real life example vs reading the manual. and yes, my viscous coupling was working.

also had the pleasure of driving Mr. Burke's RRC in Moab and his has the LT230 plus locked frt and rear. there is no question that it performed better than mine on similiar conditions.

most folks don't modify or drive a RR to the degree the D90s or Discos for that matter are so a B-W works most of the time. a RRC though set up really well like BBs is pretty amazing.

so, we're putting in a LT230 in my RR build-up along with some other stuff.

hope that helps.
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Jaime

 

[Ian95rrc]

I know there are limitations to the BW. I understnad you can't get enough slippaged of the plates when you try to move from a stop like you describe. The VC does take time to heat up and engage, especially if it's been stationary for even a relatively short time. However, I still believe that the VC does indeed fully lock the center diff.

 

[Blueboy]

maybe yes, maybe no.

all I do know is how well a RR works with a LT230 vs a B-W. at least in some cases.

also if it were so great, then why didn't it expand to the other models?

for me and my needs, the LT230 is the way to go.


Jaime

 

[Random]

However, I still believe that the VC does indeed fully lock the center diff.

The very nature of a Viscious Coupling (LSD or center Locking Diff) means it can never truly be 100% locked. There will always be some slipage. In real world driving and about 75% of off roading situations, you'll never notice the difference. For that other 25% of the time when you NEED a FULL LOCK, the Viscious unit just won't fully lock. Ever.

If you plan on building up a "serious" off road machine, a real Center Locking Diff is the way to go. But since the RRC's were never really designed to have the FULL capability of their Land Rover brothers(or cousins), it's an acceptable trade off. EVERY vehicle has limitations, you just need to keep them in mind, when you use them/drive them.