Aftermarket Stuff

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D Chapman

Guest
What is the ONE thing you'd like to see avaliable for the LR3? I know you can get almost anything, but some of the stuff already out there is crap. What would you like to see a better choice of or just totaly redesigned? Bumper? Sliders? Underbody protection? Curb feelers?
 

Urban Exploer

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2007
222
0
Pensacola, FL
A rear bumper so we don't have to take them off when leaving the payment. And the winch plate LR wants $2500 for, its just a steel box that bolts on to the front.

I am sure there is more LR3 stuff we want out there to.

Leo
 

nwoods

Well-known member
Apr 1, 2006
467
0
SoCal
www.nextstepdesigns.com
1. Long travel coil over suspension lift
2. Gas tank skid plate that is not paper thin like the OEM one.
3. Rear bumper that provides better departure angle
4. Tire carrier that swings to the RIGHT, instead of to the left (why anyone thinks to the left is smart is beyond me - which side is the damm sidewalk on?)
5. Front bumper that doesn't look so monsterously huge like the ARB unit
6. Relocated or resized radiator/oil cooler to improve approach angles
7. Smarter exhaust routing that goes over the rear driveshaft

Sliders exist, skid plates exist, it's the other stuff we need.
 

derekdilks

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
189
0
Harrisburg, PA
D Chapman said:
What is the ONE thing you'd like to see avaliable for the LR3? I know you can get almost anything, but some of the stuff already out there is crap. What would you like to see a better choice of or just totaly redesigned? Bumper? Sliders? Underbody protection? Curb feelers?
I'd like sliders that actually don't look like crap. No offense to Nathan or Slick Rock. Maybe that's the way they have to be built to work on the LR3 frame, but it would be nice if someone could fab up a set that are very low profile that blend in or replace the existing plastic sills. I guess the challenge here is the strength. But I personally don't like the nerf look, especially on Nathans (it's not so bad on SRF's http://www.slickrockfabrication.com/sneakpeek.asp ) I don't need to stand on them, I need them to be sliders. I like non-nerf SRF and RTE sliders for the DI,II,RRC because they look so close to the stock AND work well.
 

nwoods

Well-known member
Apr 1, 2006
467
0
SoCal
www.nextstepdesigns.com
The Rover Specialties sliders come in three configurations, the Stage I config is without the standoff tubes, creating an ultra clean low profile appearance. Basically like this, without the tubes (see below).

Good to see that Dave is making progress on the SlickRock sliders.
 

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derekdilks

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
189
0
Harrisburg, PA
nwoods said:
The Rover Specialties sliders come in three configurations, the Stage I config is without the standoff tubes, creating an ultra clean low profile appearance. Basically like this, without the tubes (see below).

Good to see that Dave is making progress on the SlickRock sliders.

Nathan, do you have any shots of the stage I with the doors closed? If the nerf bar isn't there, how does it protect the bottom of the doors? Looks good from that picture, but I need to see a different angle.
 

nwoods

Well-known member
Apr 1, 2006
467
0
SoCal
www.nextstepdesigns.com
I don't have a photo of a finished product installed in that configuration. Here is a very rough photo of the prototype unit prior to finishing. Basically, these sliders follow the contour up around the body. You remove the plastic trim under the door to fit them, and the plating becomes the sill. The sills hang down about 2 inches below the bottom of the door.

Refer to the photo above for what they look like finished off and powder coated. This photo below is just of the prototype in rough trim form.

Here are two photos (courtesy of EE - thanks!) that show the cross section of the body sill. The frame is about 10 inches inboard of the sill. The outer piece is the plastic skirt that gets removed and replaced by the Rock Sliders.
 

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derekdilks

Well-known member
Jun 20, 2006
189
0
Harrisburg, PA
nwoods said:
I don't have a photo of a finished product installed in that configuration. Here is a very rough photo of the prototype unit prior to finishing. Basically, these sliders follow the contour up around the body. You remove the plastic trim under the door to fit them, and the plating becomes the sill. The sills hang down about 2 inches below the bottom of the door.

Refer to the photo above for what they look like finished off and powder coated. This photo below is just of the prototype in rough trim form.

Here are two photos (courtesy of EE - thanks!) that show the cross section of the body sill. The frame is about 10 inches inboard of the sill. The outer piece is the plastic skirt that gets removed and replaced by the Rock Sliders.

email sent
 

jwest

Well-known member
May 28, 2006
899
7
WA & NC
Well, from someone who bought lots of stuff without really researching ALL the options out there:

I would like to have a stiff spring lift version rather than the air suspension. The D2 drove better when lifted a couple inches and gained the useful tire and ground clearance at the same time.

An after market locking rear diff solution, for front too but likely very problematic.

Exhuast rerouting - as stated previously.

More torque - for the heft of this thing especially with all the heavy stuff added on, and then 4 people and gear, what a slug.
A front bumper that is kind of like the RTE but with upper bars similar to ARB or TJM but not using round tubing because the square edges of the RTE go better with the lines of the LR3 than the ARB does.

Rear bumper, similar in functions to the Kaymar but with quick change mounts to leave the swing arms at home unless you're going to the trail. Also, using locking mechanisms similar to the rear bumper ARB makes for the Land Cruiser 100 series. It's much cleaner and small parts are enclosed inside bumper rather than exposed to damage. Also, tire should be located more center rather than so outboard blocking tail light. It would have been so simple to make this aspect adjustable to user needs.

Yeah, real skids for back half of underside.

camper top roof conversion .... ;) Japan and Denmark are doing it. It's kind of like a VW camper van deal.
Extended range fuel tank to mount where spare tire went. PLUS skid bridging rear axle to rear bumper.
Better towing receiver - that block thing is annoying. I just want a high located, straight in, 2" like the D1 has.

oh, better throttle response.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
Without giving up too much detail, here are Tami's new sliders. At this point, don't even ask.........this is the only pic you're going to get for a while.
 

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