Crazy stupid question?? Series 109 body on Disco Chassis?

[pamo61]

I have seen some chassis swap articles, but has anyone put a 109 body on a complete disco or range rover chassis? Complete, like drivetrain and all? I know the chassis would have to be streched a little, but that is not too difficult. There has to be some reason why i can't find any info. Is it completly nuts? Am i retarded? Thanks for any info...

-p

 

[Leslie]

Been done loads of times. Search on "hybrids" (in Land Rover circles, a hybrid is a Series body swapped on a coiler chassis, not an alternative fuel....).

 

[stu454]

Get a '93-'95 RRC LWB frame (108" wheelbase) and you could do away with the frame stretch.

 

[pdxrovermech]

I know a couple of people who have done this. In both instances the person doing it was one of those nutty do it yourself guys and didnt seem like the type to document it or possibly even use the internet. Like Stu said, use the LWB frame since the wheelbase is near identical. Theres one guy in town that took it a step further and was crazy enough to put a 109 body on a d2.

 

[pamo61]

Thanks for all the info, keep it coming! I was thinking of a D2 too, since I know them pretty good and since it is much newer than the RRC, but not too expensive to buy one as a donor vehicle...

 

[pdxrovermech]

well if I ever find out if the guy did any sort of write up on it I'll let ya know.

 

[pamo61]

Thanks!

 

[KyleT]

you could also be a mavrick and use a P38 frame too.

 

[Ron]

The more common is an 88 body on a shortened RRC/DI frame. LRW did a project called rolling thunder about 9 or 10 years ago which detailed the process. I believe David Gage did a 130 on a LWB chassis at one point too. THe biggest hastle or expense is buying/making the outriggers and rear crossmember. A lot of things are different. OTOH, a 109 body will bolt right on to a 110 chassis. The rear wheel is an inch off, but it does not look too bad.

 

[LR Max]

Ron, I think Dave stretched a D-110 chassis for his 130. I remember seeing it with the box steel in the middle of the chassis.

I remember seeing a write up somewhere, basically the guy had a D110 body he put on a disco/RRC running gear and chassis. Biggest problem he had, other than modifying the rear tub, was that the front tires of the disco/RRC chassis sit farther back than on the defenders. Thus, he had to modify the defender bulkhead since the tires weren't in the same place.

Just have a welder, cutter and patience. You'll be good.

 

[Leslie]

Ya know, you'd think that I should remember all this, given I had a hand in it. I really wanted to keep that 130, that was a nice truck.

We did start with a RRC. I don't remember if it was a LWB or not, but I think it was. At some point, we did get a 110 chassis, but if I correctly recall, we ended up using it on another project instead; I think the 130 was still the RRC.

But, I can find out.... will report back...

 

[Leslie]

The RRC that was stretched for the 130, got pulled and sold off; the 110 chassis was cut and stretched for the 130 then, so the 130 *does* have a proper 110 chassis stretched. (That's the way Rover does them, they stretch 110 chassis for 130s, too).

 

[Gordo]

I built an Series III on a RRC chassis. Wasnt too hard but it takes time. Not a lot of info on the net. A good starter is to watch a "4x4 is born". Its a 90 on a RRC chassis but is a 4 hour program that was on Discovery channel in the UK. the format was different so I had to watch it on my cpu but it gives you some ideas and is pretty cool to watch. I think you can still buy the "rolling thunder" back issues but it isnt complete. I had quite a bit of paperwork at one point and the DVD but I loaned them out to web wheeler and never got it back. Its almost easier to get the pieces and start mocking away with tac welds. Once you get everything where you want it take it apart and weld it up for good. My buddy Steven Peters did a 109 on a 100 chassis and that was the easiest way. With a LWB your probably still going to have to stretch the chassis a bit. Remember the series rear wheel sits a little forward as it is on the 109. My 88 had a 89-90 inch wheelbase to push the tire to the center of the well. Also the RRC/D1 axles are wider so unless you run really skinny tires they are probably going to stick out a bit. I ran 34x10.5 LTBs and with the D90 flares it wasnt an issue. Also the body is going to have to be lifted to clear the rear hump on the chassis. Stock replacement outriggers work fine, but I did have to modify them. The tank was also modified to clear the trailing arm mounts. The rear crossmember I used was a stock replacement. I left the engine in place but if you want to keep the series breakfast you will probably have to shift the engine back several inches. My build, while its an 88 can be seen here. Might give you some ideas.
In the process of building another now and its much easier the second go round. Gordo

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