D1 R380 Clutch Kit Consensus? How DIY friendly?

JohnnoK

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2017
185
19
Cape Town, South Africa
Clutch forks are the same as the LT77 in the Defenders and they are the solid ones, not the fragile pressed piece, change to that if you have a pressed one.
I'd suggest also surfacing the flywheel if it's glazed AND doing the rear crank seal while you have it all out.

For removing the box, I made up an A frame for my chain block and took the centre console out along with the access plate.
This allowed the box to hang perfectly level and with a bit of adjustment, at the correct clock angle to make reinstallation a doddle by myself.

block and tackle.jpgblock and tackle 2.jpgblock and tackle 3.jpgblock and tackle 4.jpg
 
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_ExpeditionMan

Well-known member
Dec 11, 2017
234
25
Texas
1. I purchased OEM parts.
2. It is challenging to get to the bellhousing bolts but with the right combination of extensions, you can do it. If you have the money it’s always easier to have someone else do it. I was just looking at another web forum where the costs quoted were between $4300 and $2200. It was well worth it to me to do it myself. I’m not sure I would do it on my back though. I have a lift and transmission jack. I’d do it if I was 30 but at 50, I need the lift.
3. Be sure to replace the pilot bearing. I have taken 3 apart and all had pilot bearing issues. Even the ones with 55,000 and 27,000 miles had issues (very loose in the bore). I also replaced the rear main seal and input shaft seal.

** If you have an engine that needs gaskets and seals replaced, you might consider pulling the engine and trans together. I have done that, replacing every gasket and seal I could, clean out the oil pan, lubricate the t-case shifter parts, all new mounts, radiator/heater hoses, etcetera. Clutch is really easy with everything out.
Bumping my own thread now that this job is about to get completed. Regarding the pilot bearing you mentioned, is that the brass spigot seen here? Or something entirely different?

Additionally, are there any flywheels available for R&R? Since my rear main seal has been leaking I'm worried about the condition of my flywheel. Everything seems to be NLA.
20220531_225601.jpg
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
771
131
Bumping my own thread now that this job is about to get completed. Regarding the pilot bearing you mentioned, is that the brass spigot seen here? Or something entirely different?

Additionally, are there any flywheels available for R&R? Since my rear main seal has been leaking I'm worried about the condition of my flywheel. Everything seems to be NLA.
View attachment 62811
Yes, that is the pilot bushing I was discussing. Be sure it is Not loose in the bore when you install it.
 

JohnnoK

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2017
185
19
Cape Town, South Africa
Just be careful when fitting your box to keep it as level and lined up as possible so it doesn't damage the spigot bush.
Soak the bush in oil overnight before installing it, it must be flush or a smidgen deeper than the rear face of the crankshaft.
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
771
131
Excellent, any tips to ensure it is fully seated or for installation in general? Did you just have your flywheel resurfaced?
I hope yours doesn’t need it, but my pilot/spigot bushing bore in the crankshaft had some wear from the old bushing slipping in the bore. I used loctite to keep it in place. I am hesitant to recommend that as I haven’t (thankfully) had the gearbox back out to check. And, I came up with that solution on my own. I do not know if that is an advisable way to handle it.

I did not have the flywheel resurfaced as I had a spare that was in like new condition. However, I definitely would if it had wear. It’s not expensive and well worth doing considering the labor of the whole job.