The lock button on the fob for my new-to-me 2004 D2 didn't work. Time to investigate (the Victornix CyberTool is my favorite Swiss army knife):
With the cover off, there are two plastic prongs that hold the circuit board in place. After removing the battery, by gently prying one of the prongs to the side, the circuit board should pop out.
Well that explains why the lock button wasn't working: the top half of the switch was missing.
I got out the micrometers and measured the dimensions of the remaining switch. Searching on the trusty Digikey.com website, I matched it to C&K Part number KSR251GLFS. They're cheap ($0.61 each) so I got 3 in case I screwed up a couple in installation. The shipping and handling charge was the most expensive part of this order.
Trying to do this without the board securely mounted is a bad idea.
The old switch body came out pretty easily by hitting the mounting tabs with a soldering iron. There was enough solder left on the pads on the board to tack solder the new switch in place; then I hit each tab in turn with a bit more solder to secure it.
Successful repair. And way cheaper than buying a whole new fob and having it programmed.
With the cover off, there are two plastic prongs that hold the circuit board in place. After removing the battery, by gently prying one of the prongs to the side, the circuit board should pop out.
Well that explains why the lock button wasn't working: the top half of the switch was missing.
I got out the micrometers and measured the dimensions of the remaining switch. Searching on the trusty Digikey.com website, I matched it to C&K Part number KSR251GLFS. They're cheap ($0.61 each) so I got 3 in case I screwed up a couple in installation. The shipping and handling charge was the most expensive part of this order.
Trying to do this without the board securely mounted is a bad idea.
The old switch body came out pretty easily by hitting the mounting tabs with a soldering iron. There was enough solder left on the pads on the board to tack solder the new switch in place; then I hit each tab in turn with a bit more solder to secure it.
Successful repair. And way cheaper than buying a whole new fob and having it programmed.
