Damn distributor again!

[DiscoJen]

I dunno if I'm just frustrated or tired of working on my truck and missing something obvious, but I can't get it started and I think it's the timing. When I first tried to start it up a few weeks ago it would turn over and almost start. Thought the distributor was 180 out so I took it out and tried again. Now all it does is turn over.

Took a week off to clear my head and fiddled with it again yesterday. I'm at TDC at the top of the compression stroke but my rotor points at the #2 cylinder. Everything I've read says it should point to the #1 cylinder.

What the heck am I overlooking?

 

[LR Max]

I think you are 90 degrees off just by looking at it and what I hear kinda backs that up.

Rotate her 90 degrees counter clockwise. Then try a crank and the timing light.

 

[1MITCH1]

In that pic the rotor is pointing at #2 but that looks like where the number 1 wire is on the cap.
Are you getting spark?

 

[apg]

The vacuum pot for the advance mechanism is pointed wrong, too. It's usually fore and aft, not aiming at the block like that. But placement is irrelevant (I think), as long as #1 piston TDC and the spark to #1 wire coincide. It's 1,3,4,2 counterclockwise. And make sure that TDC is at the top of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. You'll be at TDC twice on each go-round.

 

[DiscoJen]

So it doesn't matter that my rotor is pointing to the #2 cylinder at TDC compression stroke then? Basically, I need to swap my wires so that the #2 cylinder fires first, then keep with my 1-3-4-2 firing order counterclockwise from that?

This should be elementary to me by now, but I guess since my truck never really ran again after the wiring harness fire over a year ago it's like starting over again on the learning curve. I'll try again tonight and see what I get.

Thanks all, I'll keep ya posted!

 

[1MITCH1]

I think my post was confusing. The rotor appears to be oriented correctly relative to where the wires are on the cap. What I mean is, if the engine is really at TDC and you put the cap back on it will be pointing at #1 wire.

Question, does the rotor turn counter-clockwise or clockwise?

 

[DiscoJen]

Counter clockwise.

 

[DiscoJen]

Nope still no luck. Does anyone how to test an electronic distributor? I may be banging my head against the wall on a distributor that is defective.

Note: this is NOT a Pertronix unit. It's a Simon unit (I've heard it's the same electronic distributor as the Britpart.)

 

[akronk1]

Sir Alfred... For times like this, I think you need to give him a second nickname, Sir P.I.A., for all the "fun" that Alfie's having with you!! LOL

 

[apg]

Work backwards. Take any spark plug lead off, insert a screwdriver and hold the blade close to ground as someone turns the engine over. (If you don't have that someone else near by, buy a spark tester.) Spark should be big and blue - and audible.

No spark? Work backwards. Remove center wire on the dizzy and hold that close to ground. No spark means either the coil is bad, there's no power to the coil or the control module - that which replaced the points 'n' such - is suspect.

It really doesn't matter which way the dizzy is oriented - so long as #1 gets fire at the moment it goes past TDC. Make triple damn sure you are at TDC. Having the rotor point to #1 is just one more way the factory ensured that things go on right.

You CAN do this...it's not rocket science. But then I've been foolin' with The Prince of Darkness for four decades.... My moment of madness came one day when I replaced the points and condensor, and couldn't get it to fire. Turns out the "genuine" Lucas condensor was bad right out of the box.

 

[singingcamel]

Are you sure your on the compression stroke? You may be on the exhaust stoke.
You are not that far off from the pic, , you can make up the difference by rotating the dizzy.
Firing order is counter clockwise.
Does the rotor turn when you turn it over?
That dizzy shaft has to sit in the groove on the bottom off the dizzy, it mates with the oil pump shaft so make sure its turning and seated.
Jen, make sure you have spark from the coil. any spark to anyy plug?
Are you still in need of a battery tray?

 

[DiscoJen]

Thanks for the encouragement Sandy, I really needed that.

But you're right. Once I got a 2nd hand to help turn the key over while I tested for spark I instantly realized I'm still not getting any. The coil is new, and I even tried a spare so the problem isn't there. Maybe my new ignition switch is faulty or my new remote "Ford style" solenoid is faulty (or even wired up wrong). Maybe my new wiring got pinched and cut. I'll start checking those things the next time I have a few minutes to play.

At least I have some renewed hope and focus.

Marc, I actually had a battery try built a few weeks ago. I have yet to mount it of course, but my battery fits lovely on the frame while struggling to get this thing started. The distributor is seated properly on the drive dog thingy and when the #1 piston is all the way up on the stroke (stuck a screwdriver in to measure it) is when I'm pointing at the #2 cylinder. I can't remember if I had it running at that position before, or if it was indeed pointing at #1...heck it's been over a year now so my memory fails me.

 

[LR Max]

Two things:

For the Ford Starter solenoid, your "exciter" wire connects to the terminal nearest the "input" terminal.

Second, here is a photo of my distributor orientation. Just food for thought:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4092/5058264605_1382680b27.jpg

 

[bmohan55]

If the dizzy is properly seated, could you have "jumped time"? i.e. loose timing chain? Hard to tell how the cap orients on the base but the rotor really should be pointing to #1. Think that may explain the rotor pointing to the wrong cylinder. Hope I'm wrong.

Also, I always checked TDC with a drinking straw, less chance of damaging something important.

But what do I know, I blew mine up!