i have a 95 D1 that will not start if i try to restart w/in 3mins of turning it off..

[tradin1]

but if i let it sit for 10 mins or so, it will start up. sometimes it turns right over, sometimes it turns a few times. obviously when it doesnt start at all is the most troublesome. any insight would be appreciated.

thx in advance

 

[syoung]

temp sensitive ignition amplifier?

 

[tradin1]

is that the same thing as the coil, or something else?

 

[Rocky]

I'd look at the coil. Classic symptom of a coil thats leaked coolant and overheats as a result but driving ensures "splash" lubrication keeps it cool

 

[tradin1]

thx, ill try that first.

 

[EXPetrush]

Also double check the cables to the starter, they have a history of rotting from within becuase of the rubber coating. Just make sure you don't damage the starter selonoid, this cannot be replaced without replacing the whole starter.

What symptoms does it have when it doesn't start? does it click? lights go dim?? If the cables are very weak.. heat can effect the voltage pass thru.

 

[tradin1]

it just turns over and over and over...

 

[EXPetrush]

ok if it turns over then your cables are fine... check for amplifier & spark...

 

[AndyThoma]

Another simple check, distributer cap and rotor, could be cracked.

 

[RoverChic]

I second the dissy...Do a search as well from a DWeb member named Robyn Freeman. Some of the best advice was offered on that thread for a 1995 D1 not starting. If I can find it I will post it ...Best of luck! I have been in those shoes before. Melissa 1998 D1 Here you are : HaVe TrIeD EvErYtHiNg ThIs 96 DiScO wOnt TuRn OvEr (hers was a 1995 though)

It is not exactly the problem you appear to be having nonetheless it has some superb advice IMHO.

 

[Joey]

Fuel temperature sensor

The fuel temperature sensor is inserted in the fuel rail and measures fuel and fuel rail temperatures. During engine cranking at high temperatures, the ECM increases fuel supply, and opens the throttle disc via the stepper motor to aid hot starting.

 

[AndyThoma]

Dissy -- I hate that term.

Start simple, look at your DISTRIBUTER cap and rotor, wires, plugs. You could have a failing fuel pump. My 95 d1 would start okay and idle, but give it gas and it would die. Restart was really hard. Checking the fuel pressure would tell you that. The fuel temp sensor is a good guess too. Eliminate your potential problems first, then try replacing the expensive parts.

 

[tradin1]

it may be the fuel temp sensor too, when it doesnt start like that, and i floor it (computer controlled motors ver of a choke) while starting, it almost starts. does anyone know what it should read when tested?

 

[neil30076]

Are you sure your injectors are firing? Use a long handled screwdriver as a stethascope and place against a convenient injector, have some one try to start for you. while you glue your ear to the handle end! If you here a clicking sound, they are fine, if not, check fuse 7 in engine bay first, you may just have a fuse going bad on you.

 

[tradin1]

ill replace fuse 7 regaurdless, thx. i will have the time to trouble shoot this over the w/end. the help is tremendous guy THX!!!

 

[neil30076]

Before changing all the high priced parts, check out the relays. I know from experience that the same manufacturer makes the LR relays as Porsche relays, and I had an identical problem on my porsche that was a relay that went open circuit when it got hot. Symptoms were the car would not restart for 5 - 60 minutes, then started fine.
Local Porsche dealer ordered the relay from Germany for a 1981 car! and got it in 2 days by fedex, and it cost me only the part ( $15.95) which was cheaper than all the USaftermarket parts sources!
Not sure where you live, but if its a high ambient temp area, think vapor lock as well.
Neil