I just use a punch that I ground down into a small chisel to dig into those nubs that remain. I reinstall them the same way I take them out.
Key Not Turning in Ignition Switch
- Thread starter DC97
- Start date
On other vehicles I’ve had success using graphite powder on the key and the using a 3/8 extension and a hammer to pursuade it
Reviving this old thread because I’m running into this again on a different D1. This time my ‘98 LE.
The old tapping the key while turning trick didn’t work this time (no matter how long i tried) so I removed the entire ignition mechanism.
In my case i’ve lubricated the cylinder with graphite and worked it back and forth enough it seems to keep turning but the spring loaded mechanism that allows the key to be depressed in before removal seems to be sticking.
So to ask someone experienced in this the following questions:
1.. Has anyone successfully removed and reinstalled the crimped in metal plates (green arrows) protecting whatever mechanical parts are inside to inspect or lubricate?
2. Has anyone tried to soak the entire mechanism in a jar of penetration oil (except for the key cylinder) to see if that frees up the mechanism/ key release?
3. And while at it - has anyone posted detailed information on removing the brass pin (red arrow) that holds the key cylinder on and what to use as a replacement?
Thanks in advance In know this is a lot to ask in one thread
The old tapping the key while turning trick didn’t work this time (no matter how long i tried) so I removed the entire ignition mechanism.
In my case i’ve lubricated the cylinder with graphite and worked it back and forth enough it seems to keep turning but the spring loaded mechanism that allows the key to be depressed in before removal seems to be sticking.
So to ask someone experienced in this the following questions:
1.. Has anyone successfully removed and reinstalled the crimped in metal plates (green arrows) protecting whatever mechanical parts are inside to inspect or lubricate?
2. Has anyone tried to soak the entire mechanism in a jar of penetration oil (except for the key cylinder) to see if that frees up the mechanism/ key release?
3. And while at it - has anyone posted detailed information on removing the brass pin (red arrow) that holds the key cylinder on and what to use as a replacement?
Thanks in advance In know this is a lot to ask in one thread
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I think maybe a lock smith who does some automotive stuff might be able to help you out. Not 100% sure you’re going to find one willing. But just take the tumblers out all together. Yeah it will start for everybody with anything that even resembles a disco key.
I think the stuff is getting so old now that my old trick of finding a good used ignition and door lock cylinder is probably just going to come up with more broken lock cylinders.
I think the soaking probably won’t help much. The tumblers are most likely broken and getting jammed up with all the pieces.
I think the stuff is getting so old now that my old trick of finding a good used ignition and door lock cylinder is probably just going to come up with more broken lock cylinders.
I think the soaking probably won’t help much. The tumblers are most likely broken and getting jammed up with all the pieces.
It’s interesting because there is a lot going on mechanically with these ignition barrels and without seeing the internals its hard to understand how it works!
Also not sure my problem is isolated to just the tumblers - graphite got it turning clockwise but going counterclockwise it sticks after being depressed inwards to rotate and remove the key.
A single light tap with a hammer gets it to release.
Seems like something clicks inside the barrel mechanism away from the the cylinder when it does work so was curious if anyone has ever taken these things apart.
I’ll give the locksmith route a try or maybe find a used / not working unit to experiment disassembly on
Also not sure my problem is isolated to just the tumblers - graphite got it turning clockwise but going counterclockwise it sticks after being depressed inwards to rotate and remove the key.
A single light tap with a hammer gets it to release.
Seems like something clicks inside the barrel mechanism away from the the cylinder when it does work so was curious if anyone has ever taken these things apart.
I’ll give the locksmith route a try or maybe find a used / not working unit to experiment disassembly on
Ok well you might have a brake shift interlock problem. The system has 2 safety related functions. It keeps you from shifting out of park till your foots on the brake. It’s second job is to make sure you can’t take the key out till the trans is in park.
There’s a SIDS document that provides the best description of it. Let me see how big that document is and see how to get it to you
Thank you, if it’s not too much trouble I’d be very interested in reading that SID. I guess the complexity of the interlock system is why so many of the aftermarket ignition barrels are only for ‘manual shift’ vehicles
Without knowing how that system works I’m suspecting i’ve got a mechanical issue because key removal is sticking when bench testing and not powered.
Without knowing how that system works I’m suspecting i’ve got a mechanical issue because key removal is sticking when bench testing and not powered.
Thank you, that's good to know in case i need a fall back.
Atlantic British stocks an aftermarket automatic trans version but only for the D2. Not sure if it’s compatible..
Seems like without viable replacements out there being able to repair and restore these for the D1 is a must given how frequently they cause issues!
Atlantic British stocks an aftermarket automatic trans version but only for the D2. Not sure if it’s compatible..
Seems like without viable replacements out there being able to repair and restore these for the D1 is a must given how frequently they cause issues!
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Lock Assembly - With Keys - Steering Column | RRC - Ds1
STC1435 - Britpart, Allmakes and Land Rover options for STC1435 Lock Assembly - With Keys - Steering Column | RRC - Ds1 - EXPRESS Shipping - UK, EU and Worldwide.
It is the manual trans version but if the only practical difference is it allows the key to be removed when not in park, seems like a no brainer. LR Direct even shows an OEM version. I also imagine some of the US vendors have it as well.
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Or…
LAND ROVER STEERING LOCK COLUMN IGNITION SWITCH DISCOVERY 1 A/T STC1436 AM | eBay
Part # STC1436. STEERING LOCK COLUMN - IGNITION SWITCH. Discovery 1 (Automatic Transmission).
www.ebay.com
Awesome, thanks for finding that. Looks like a viable replacement is out there for automatics. Still would like to fix what I have and avoid carrying two keys but this is a great solution.Or…
LAND ROVER STEERING LOCK COLUMN IGNITION SWITCH DISCOVERY 1 A/T STC1436 AM | eBay
Part # STC1436. STEERING LOCK COLUMN - IGNITION SWITCH. Discovery 1 (Automatic Transmission).www.ebay.com
I broke a key off in the ignition lock of my 98. My uneducated attempts to remove it resulted in me ruining the lock cylinder. So, I removed one from a parts rig and swapped it in. It clearly was a replacement part and some of the wiring wasn’t used. I suspect it was a D2 switch. Everything worked perfectly without a home for the extra wires. Also, retracing my steps. I think I could have just used the lock cylinder by itself and reused the electrical portion. Understanding that, I assume the difference in auto and manual versions is the electrical part and seems logical you could use a lock cylinder from an auto or manual version if you desire.
Furthermore, this D1 was an automatic that I converted to 5 speed. The interlock had no function in that one. However, the parts rig was an automatic and everything worked as it should in that one. I have the ignition switch (removed from the other one that needed the lock cylinder) in the parts rig plugged in but hanging down so I can start it and move it around when needed.
Yep, it’s a bummer having to have two keys.
Furthermore, this D1 was an automatic that I converted to 5 speed. The interlock had no function in that one. However, the parts rig was an automatic and everything worked as it should in that one. I have the ignition switch (removed from the other one that needed the lock cylinder) in the parts rig plugged in but hanging down so I can start it and move it around when needed.
Yep, it’s a bummer having to have two keys.
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I know this is about a D1, but in my truck (thus far) I simply need to pull out the key just a little bit while turning it to get the ignition switch to work.
I consider it a minor anti-theft device. Most people would just shove the key in all the way ant try to turn it.
The anti-theft device on my other vehicle is a manual transmission.
I consider it a minor anti-theft device. Most people would just shove the key in all the way ant try to turn it.
The anti-theft device on my other vehicle is a manual transmission.
They have an undeserved reputation because they are wonderful vehicles…
..but not letting you turn the key and not letting you put gas in the tank (trickle valve nightmare) are probably two of the most maddening problems for me (I’m sure everyone has their top-10 list).
..but yes for whatever reason i’ll waste endless energy before I carry around two keys.
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The anti-theft device on my other vehicle is a manual transmission.
..and that brisk top speed, huge turning radius and brakes that only suggest stopping don’t hurt either if someone was foolish enough to try!
I’m dropping this interesting video of a locksmith cutting a key for an ‘88 range rover - older model but interesting to see because I imagine similar internal parts in the 90’s ignition barrels.
Among important differences, I believe the newer cylinder is retained by a flush cut brass pin on the side that needs to be drilled out, i’ll find out when I attempt it.
Also noted the use of LPS1 Dry Lubricant :
Among important differences, I believe the newer cylinder is retained by a flush cut brass pin on the side that needs to be drilled out, i’ll find out when I attempt it.
Also noted the use of LPS1 Dry Lubricant :
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