LR3 Wiring Diagrams

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
Hello - im trying to track down a "B1C59-14 (2F) Electric door window glass relay output circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open" fault to fix my rear windows not working.

The previous owner mentioned they were finicky, and they are, but now they wont work at all. I was thinking it might potentially be water ingress from the passenger side drain by the cjb but that looks to be intact and nothing is wet over there. I have taken it thru the car wash 2 times, the first didnt affect anything, the second time is when it stopped working. Could be related, could just be timing.

I have also replaced the battery for some other issues that were coming up that aren't anymore.

The front windows work without issue so reluctant to think its the driver door switch but very well could be.

Im trying to track down some information about wiring on these vehicles. Mainly where I should start looking for grounds/splices/where the actual wiring looms are that contain the wiring for the rear windows. Is there an equivalent to the Rave for them?

What ive found so far is an LR3 wiring guide but doesnt list locations. I have found an L320 guide (thanks for Walts vault of info), and it looks to have corresponding information. Can I use both of these for my current needs or is there something better?


 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
We could just go right to the most probable cause if you like.
I’m willing to bet money that you have a bad splice in the right front door sill area.
It’s a black and grey wire. This here was actually a similar problem like I think you have.
 

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robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
We could just go right to the most probable cause if you like.
I’m willing to bet money that you have a bad splice in the right front door sill area.
It’s a black and grey wire. This here was actually a similar problem like I think you have.
Thank you for the insight. I’ve pulled up the coverings and inspected what I could access and I’m not seeing a splice for the black/very wire just yet.

could it be further up into the footwell or pillar b where it gets additional plastic shielding and metal cross beam?

It sounds like the right track.

do you think it’s further up or in the b pillar area?

IMG_6989.jpegIMG_6988.jpeg
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
Yes its possible. That could be it but it looks kind of black n white. Your doing it exactly how I do it. Look for more than one black n grey wire that seem to be going to the same location. Then when you find the splice it will be wrapped with a small patch of blue tape.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
I found this one and thought it was the same but might not be. The lighting on the photo is different though.
0B5AEDAF-3914-47E9-B6C6-A030B4B627B8_1_105_c.jpeg
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
I ended up paying for access to Topix and got the correct wiring guide for an LR3 which is slightly different than what I had.

Looking at these, the splice for all the grounds looks to be in the drivers door, is that correct?

harness C0343 (rear window controls) ground goes to Sheet2 and labeled E.
Window Ground # 2.png

This then splices into the ground coming off the driver door window motor at SJ210 which is after C0740 (Motor-Window-Driver) and before C0363 (Driver Door Harness)
Window Ground.png

C0740 - Window Motor Driver.pngC0336 - Driver Harness.png


Which then all ground at C0811L.
C0811L - Window Harness Ground.png

Does this seem correct? I can still look on the passenger side but im not seeing any wires for the grounds hitting that side except for the final ground. All the splices look to be in the driver door. If the ground on the passenger side was an issue, wouldnt all the windows have issues and not just the rears?
 

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robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
Yes its possible. That could be it but it looks kind of black n white. Your doing it exactly how I do it. Look for more than one black n grey wire that seem to be going to the same location. Then when you find the splice it will be wrapped with a small patch of blue tape.
Found the grounds bundled in the blue tape in the driver door. These look to be intact.

If there was an issue with the ground between the door and the frame, woudnt that cause other issues with the rest rest of the windows as well? Both fronts work perfectly fine.

What about the switch isolator? Could that cause these to stop working? I believe I saw those running on the passenger side.

I haven’t checked the relay yet. A bit intimidated with how tight the area is back there but I think that’s the next area to look.

IMG_6992.jpeg
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,725
1,022
Northern Illinois
Generally it’s that wire. What it is is a bus wire and all the safety(anti pinch) data is stored in the body controller. Maybe not technically a bus but still kind of permission to run the window from the module that’s really running the window. The BCM
One of my friends has one of those led style test lights. For some reason with that light would make the system think all was good. When put on that black/grey wire at the driver door switch.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
Taking it in today to get looked at. I have power at driver door, both rear passengers switchs, ground cables are showing continuity thru the whole wire, isolator switch cutting power to rear switches when toggled on. Both windows will not function.

Ill report back what they find.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
All that for a potentially loose connection to the BCM. Tech pulled, inspected and hooked up and windows started working again.