LR4 Tailgate Actuator Replacement - DIY

[StangGT5]

I took my LR4 on a Home Depot run the other day only to find out in the parking lot that the tailgate wouldn't open. Luckily it did eventually open but that was a warning I needed to replace the actuator. So, here's a write-up. Please note that this is on a truck where it only failed to open once. If you let it go, the actuator may fail completely and you're in a world of trouble trying to get the lower carpet off to open the door.

Tools Needed:
T30
T20
8mm
10mm (if using Genuine updated actuator)
13mm long
Plastic trim tools
Phillips screw driver
Flathead screw driver
Small pick

Removal:
1. Open the door. If the actuator is weak, try using the key and gently pressing in on the upper tailgate near the hatch latch in the center of the door. I tried a couple times, let it sit, and then tried another three before it opened.

2. Remove the four screw covers on the upper trim of the tail gate and remove the phillips head screws.



3. Remove the upper trim by pulling up or prying gently from the inside with the trim tools. It's held in by the metal screw clips and two plastic retainers. I used a screw to realign the screw clips for easy installation when it's time.



4. Support the tailgate on something and remove the tailgate cables. I used a tall box with some bubble wrap. Make sure to slide the pop-collars on the cables down toward the truck before popping them off the nipples. DO NOT LET THE CABLES GO. I just gently let them feed against the trim panels, but you could use a bag clip or cable holder to keep them from going up into the truck. The nipples on the tailgate are 13mm.




5. Remove the lower trim panel. It is held in by plastic retainers. Just use a trim tool and work your way around the panel.



6. Remove the T30 screws securing the hatch release. There is no adjustment on it, so you don't need to mark them.



7. Remove the tailgate actuator. You'll need to remove the two 8mm bolts holding it to the tailgate and unplug two tabbed connectors. you can prop the folding trim up and out of the way with a large trim tool. One connector goes to the actuator on the RH side of the tailgate. The other goes to the hatch release in the center of the tailgate. You'll need to break into the foam cover. I have tried heat guns on these before with no success. Just get in there.

 

[StangGT5]

8. Fish the old actuator out of the tailgate from the hole in the center and transfer the release mechanism to the new actuator. My new actuator had 10mm bolts in place of the 8mm ones, and a cover secured by T20 screws that I had to remove.




9. Reinstall in reverse order. My only tips on the reinstall are to 1) use the large T30 screw at 10 'o clock to loosely secure the release mechanism to the tailgate before fitting the black metal guide, 2) test the new actuator by closing and opening the tailgate before reinstalling the trim. I almost forgot to plug it in, and this step reminded me to do so, and 3) make sure the metal screw tabs in the upper trim are aligned before installation or the caps wont go back onto the screws.

 

[Howski]

Nice write up. Good job on replacing on first sign of an issue. Can assure it is a hell of a lot easier than when it’s stuck closed!

 

[StangGT5]

Nice write up. Good job on replacing on first sign of an issue. Can assure it is a hell of a lot easier than when it’s stuck closed!

Thanks! Yeah I was worried I'd have to dig into it. Luckily I've done a couple before, and now I'm 3 for 3 on just playing with the actuator to get the tailgate open.

 

[bri]

Isn't it also wise to install a manual release?

 

[StangGT5]

Isn't it also wise to install a manual release?

I've heard of that but not seen it. The original lasted 11 years, 86K and a couple owners. Seems like once every 11/86 is easier than hacking a hole in something.

 

[bri]

I think the idea is to do it so that you never need a field repair on the lower panel. I think it is a desirable mod. My fridge and XL dog crate are tied down back there, I don't even think I could extract the crate without opening the cargo door. I could however climb over the fridge to get to the manual latch.

LR3/LR4 Manual Upper Tailgate Kit

Never get locked out again with this great piece of kit from Land Rover Passion in Italy! With this kit, the tailgate can be opened even in case of upper tailgate actuator failure. Unfortunately this very common, and when it occurs it forces you have to break open the lower inside tailgate panel...

lucky8llc.com

 

[StangGT5]

I think the idea is to do it so that you never need a field repair on the lower panel. I think it is a desirable mod. My fridge and XL dog crate are tied down back there, I don't even think I could extract the crate without opening the cargo door. I could however climb over the fridge to get to the manual latch.

LR3/LR4 Manual Upper Tailgate Kit

Never get locked out again with this great piece of kit from Land Rover Passion in Italy! With this kit, the tailgate can be opened even in case of upper tailgate actuator failure. Unfortunately this very common, and when it occurs it forces you have to break open the lower inside tailgate panel...

lucky8llc.com

That's pretty neat little kit! I could see that being a worthwhile modification if you're worried about a dead battery or experienced total actuator failure and never want to chance it

I put about 5,000 miles on a car a year so it will be a very long time before my actuator needs to be replaced again. Still, good to know someone made a kit. I had only heard of people installing a hidden rip-cord in the side of the trim.

 

[bri]

You clearly do not understand the hassle of this if you are days from home and many hours from town.

 

[MM3846]

Mine failed on me after giving me only one warning shot. I had to pry the panel off which tbh wasn’t terrible. I installed the LRP kit, which is also great for opening the upper gate from inside the truck if you sleep inside it.

the actuator is a Ford part, you can get a genuine Ford one for like $40 (which is what I used) or even an eBay special for like $7.

You clearly do not understand the hassle of this if you are days from home and many hours from town.

Yup, can’t imagine if you were loaded with gear, or even worse a platform or drawer system back there and the actuator took a shit.

 

[StangGT5]

I bow to your

You clearly do not understand the hassle of this if you are days from home and many hours from town.

I bow to your overlanding prowess and kiss your ARB fridge oh overlanding overlord.

Hah, in all seriousness in 3 LR3s and 2 LR4s I've had 3 fail, and all opened with some cajoling. I've had way more problems with RRC tailgates sticking in the heat.

It's not a hard job and the Genuine part cost me around $100. If I'd have known about that kit I may have installed it, but it will take me 15 years to wear out the one I just installed.

 

[bri]

I bow to your

I bow to your overlanding prowess and kiss your ARB fridge oh overlanding overlord.

Hah, in all seriousness in 3 LR3s and 2 LR4s I've had 3 fail, and all opened with some cajoling. I've had way more problems with RRC tailgates sticking in the heat.

It's not a hard job and the Genuine part cost me around $100. If I'd have known about that kit I may have installed it, but it will take me 15 years to wear out the one I just installed.

Okie Dokie.

I'll kick myself when it brakes days from home, before I install the manual version. But I don't stress too much about it. Definitely I would add it if a I had to do the repair.