agro1,
The GEMS and Bosch shortblocks have minor differences, but the Bosch can be quickly "fixed" to work in place of the GEMS. The difference is the welded in plate which holds the crankshaft (flywheel) position sensor. This is the lower left rear corner of the block. You need to remove the "disk" and transfer it to the new block. Everything will end up in perfect alignment! Ask me, I know... my 98 D1 has a new "Bosch" shortblock in it since May.
As for your other options of short or longblocks, I would probably choose #3 if you can get any warranty or guarantee... even 30 days! The #2 option is still too expensive, and risky. Maybe $800 to assume that risk, or dealer willing to stand behind it for a period of time...
And you ask "what can fail? " In my case, try (1) dropped sleeve, (2) rear main bearing shell showing copper and loose in main cap, (3) blown head gasket, and (4) worn lobes on camshaft..... and still it was running and getting 12mpg! (of course it runs better now!)
Good luck!
The GEMS and Bosch shortblocks have minor differences, but the Bosch can be quickly "fixed" to work in place of the GEMS. The difference is the welded in plate which holds the crankshaft (flywheel) position sensor. This is the lower left rear corner of the block. You need to remove the "disk" and transfer it to the new block. Everything will end up in perfect alignment! Ask me, I know... my 98 D1 has a new "Bosch" shortblock in it since May.
As for your other options of short or longblocks, I would probably choose #3 if you can get any warranty or guarantee... even 30 days! The #2 option is still too expensive, and risky. Maybe $800 to assume that risk, or dealer willing to stand behind it for a period of time...
And you ask "what can fail? " In my case, try (1) dropped sleeve, (2) rear main bearing shell showing copper and loose in main cap, (3) blown head gasket, and (4) worn lobes on camshaft..... and still it was running and getting 12mpg! (of course it runs better now!)
Good luck!