Power Windows

D90DC

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2004
1,793
0
63
New Hampshire
I need new window regulators for my 90 and I was quoted 200+ for new ones. For that kind of cash and I'm lazy when it comes to rolling the windows I should go ahead and upgrade to power windows. Can anyone recommend any good kits, Ive seen some cheesy ones that convert the existing manual regulators. Id rather upgrade the whole unit.

Thank you
 
A

ajh

Guest
I have a spare set since I have to replace all my doors and am going to get some 2007+ ones complete. Send me an email with exactly what you need and perhaps we can work something out.

The power window option is probably going to run into complications, knowing LR they've tied the new ones into the ECU/BCM or something just to make them computer dependent.
 

D90DC

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2004
1,793
0
63
New Hampshire
There are several fully contained kits from the aftermarket, I would not even try to adhoc LR electric regulators. I have a call into my old partner he has a line on some he has installed in a few 110's. Im still leaning towards electric ones. As tall as i am its a bitch to roll down the windows

Thanks for the offer... Just in case whats the condition of your manual regulators and what year are they out of?
 
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ajh

Guest
D90DC said:
Thanks for the offer... Just in case whats the condition of your manual regulators and what year are they out of?

They're out of a 1992 and I 'think' they're in good shape, worked fine from what I recall before I tore the doors apart only to find them too far gone to be worth fixing.

I'd actually go the other way, to a SIII style door and window if I could get them in something heavier and sturdy and not prone to corrosion, I keep hearing about some excellent cast aluminum doors done by someone near Toronto but I haven't had any luck getting in touch with him yet. So barring this, the 2007+ doors with galvanized skins seem the next best option.
 

D90DC

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2004
1,793
0
63
New Hampshire
The way to go now is use the new LR Genuine steel door skins with your older steel Door frames.

I'm going to do that upgrade next year and powder coat the doors and hood and roof

Their about 300 for the pair on eBay.

About your old regulators the older ones wont work on my newer doors... But thanks for the offer...
 
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ajh

Guest
Powder coat is likely not the right approach since it requires a media blasting to really stick, you probably want to go with something like the PPG Epoxy that folks like ECR use religiously with great results, that's how I'm going at the moment.

The old frames weren't in good enough shape to be worth repairing so re-skinning isn't an option, I'm just going to get some new take-off doors from 2007+.
 

D90DC

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2004
1,793
0
63
New Hampshire
Powder Coating is the way if you can afford it Pait is not even 1/2 as durable as baked on powder coating if its done right....

First its media blasted with various grits and material type based on the surface metal. You can even do an empty coke can now

Then is coated with Zinc Phosphate, then the base color and then if desired a clear.... Its one of those things you get what you pay for...

Not an opinion its the best method... The US Navy also does the same process during overhauls and now New Construction...

Im very lucky there's a really good shop in my area does he some amazing stuff for Harley's & Hot Rods

Right now this batch getting done are my brake calipers in Red also getting coated are custom HD Tie an Trac rods, The fuel rail, The brake dust shields and a few other bits being coated... Its not cheep but this is the last time I restoring this Defender the roads here are brutal...
 
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ajh

Guest
My experience so far is different but perhaps both ARB and Hannibal are clueless about doing it right as both peeled within months of purchase, mostly over welds. The local powder coated seem to agree that it should be durable.

However on bodywork where some fixes, low spots, etc are always an issue I still think a well done epoxy is the best route. For small cast parts PC can be great, rims etc.
 

D90DC

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2004
1,793
0
63
New Hampshire
On Body parts if its not creased it can be rolled out and no damage to the finish... As far as finish failure the main thing is has to be 100% clean... And if you live in the rust belt a Zinc prep is also needed with out that it will fail...
 
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ajh

Guest
I guess it depends on how picky you want to be about things. I understand the appeal though, I'm still on the fence about getting the galvanized parts PC or just painting them as they come back. Though right now I'm thinking about setting up a zinc plating system to be able to electro-galvanize all the threads/captive nuts when they come back from dipping (masked off) and the stainless/chassis fasteners to give them a bit more protection. Getting things apare was a major pain and I'd like to at least try to minimize that for next time.
 

Doug C

Well-known member
Jul 28, 2006
500
2
Central, Virginia
Rover makes a power window conversion kit for the SW doors- think it fits them all back to 85 if you can find some that old worth updating.
Check with Stephen Peters /safarirover
 

Ren Ching

Well-known member
Nov 23, 2007
288
2
Washington DC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsyM2Crhew

:)


D90DC said:
I need new window regulators for my 90 and I was quoted 200+ for new ones. For that kind of cash and I'm lazy when it comes to rolling the windows I should go ahead and upgrade to power windows. Can anyone recommend any good kits, Ive seen some cheesy ones that convert the existing manual regulators. Id rather upgrade the whole unit.

Thank you