Posting the circuit diagrams of two types of head units - Clarion and Pioneer (latter used in soft-dash Classics, and a version of it - in Disco 1), as well as a couple of other connection diagrams.
Range Rover Classic head units
- Thread starter p m
- Start date
I thought you'd bite, Robert!
My quest was simpler - trying to troubleshoot a dead head unit - but I thought it would be useful to have it all here for posterity.
My quest was simpler - trying to troubleshoot a dead head unit - but I thought it would be useful to have it all here for posterity.
I only shared the shit code when I was clinging on to the proof of concept build way too long. If someone can trace through that and figure out what I was thinking 8 years ago, good on them. Still, it should compile just fine in arduino IDE for an uno or mini. Uno built in voltage regulator is more robust. A D1 alternator will kill the on board caps of a mini in no time.
Here's a more homebrew friendly connector shell. It uses the crimp pins that a DB9 or DB25 male shell would use. 3D prints fine on ABS. I stopped using them when I went to printed circuit boards. Crimping db pins sucks.
There will be a serious ground loop if you charge whatever you are using at the same time as playing it. transformer coupling was the easiest I found. I believe you recommended the exact model I ended up using in a post a long time ago. Triad Sp-67. They are red, and expensive. Bass roll off is only noticeable if you really pay attention.
Here's a more homebrew friendly connector shell. It uses the crimp pins that a DB9 or DB25 male shell would use. 3D prints fine on ABS. I stopped using them when I went to printed circuit boards. Crimping db pins sucks.
There will be a serious ground loop if you charge whatever you are using at the same time as playing it. transformer coupling was the easiest I found. I believe you recommended the exact model I ended up using in a post a long time ago. Triad Sp-67. They are red, and expensive. Bass roll off is only noticeable if you really pay attention.
If you look at page 23 of the pioneer you will see P-2100R
This is the serial eprom that contains the radio code in 4 bit nibbles. First nibble is I think the code length(thought it doesn't seem to actually use this as mentioned below), followed by a lookup table obfuscation of the radio code. I wrote a program a while ago to decipher this, but I can't find the final source so I don't know the translation other than what I documented in a screen shot. I uploaded an early version that doesn't decipher it. If someone else cares they can use it as a starting point.
based on the screen shot i know that
2 : 3
6 : 5
4 : 1
Since theres only 6 buttons it should be easy to figure out the missing translations.
I used a chip clip to read it on board. You could also rip this IC off the board and the code becomes any button that isn't a number pressed 5 times. For example, you could press the next track button 5 times and it would be happy. If you press '1' 5 times it will beep like a bad code was entered.
This is the serial eprom that contains the radio code in 4 bit nibbles. First nibble is I think the code length(thought it doesn't seem to actually use this as mentioned below), followed by a lookup table obfuscation of the radio code. I wrote a program a while ago to decipher this, but I can't find the final source so I don't know the translation other than what I documented in a screen shot. I uploaded an early version that doesn't decipher it. If someone else cares they can use it as a starting point.
based on the screen shot i know that
2 : 3
6 : 5
4 : 1
Since theres only 6 buttons it should be easy to figure out the missing translations.
I used a chip clip to read it on board. You could also rip this IC off the board and the code becomes any button that isn't a number pressed 5 times. For example, you could press the next track button 5 times and it would be happy. If you press '1' 5 times it will beep like a bad code was entered.
Attachments
I've been using transformer coupling on most aftermarket/factory or ham radio/factory amp combos. Practically, without a transformer the noise/whine is guaranteed on a Classic with rear-mounted amplifier.
I had pretty decent results with cheap 600Ohm transformers from Digikey, though.
I have one of the boxes you made to hook a audio Jack input into what used to bring in the cd input.
My workbench is full of unfinished electronics projectsYou could brew one up with the above files
On a similar note, I installed a Blaupunkt SQR46 in one of my classics and it's pretty sweet. It looks old, almost factory, but has BT streaming.
I've had my eye on this for a while but am trying to find a deal. Recently I looked on Crutchfield and they show it as discontinued so maybe I'll have to just bite the bullet and grab one soon.
That's a bummer if they really are discontinued. It's a pretty cool retro unit. Looks like they're still available from a couple places.
When/if my CD player dies I will need to figure this out. For now I simply intercept the audio lines from the CD player to the head unit and fool the head unit into believing a CD is playing.You could brew one up with the above files
CLASSIC INFOTAINMENT SYSTEMS | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts
The updated Land Rover radios look cool, but they're just a little bit expensive.
I used multiple sized drill bits to remove the chip. Once I got the 4 connectors on one side loose i just moved the chip back and forth until it broke free. I reassembled the tape machine and it worked as promised after hitting the arrow button 5 times. Easy enough and I would do it again without hesitation.