Anyone know of a "simple" way to convert the rear power outlet to constant on? I don't want to run a separate lead from the battery when the factory outlet is sitting back there looking for an excuse to be used. Would like to run the Engel on it for some easy family outings.
Rear acc power socket
- Thread starter Bender
- Start date
If you are running an Engel, you should be seriously thinking about adding a second battery and fuse block. But to answer your question, no, 99% of the power leads in the truck only seem to work with the key in, unless you have a new one where the seats actually move without a key.
Does the LR3 have a higher electrical requirement when the vehicle is switched off than a D1 or D2? Not trying to be argumentative, but a single good battery (Odyssey, in this case) has been fine for running a fridge plus a list of other electrical goodies in my D1. "Fine" is subjective, of course. By that I mean I can leave the fridge on for a few days in the sun without running the vehicle and still have power to start at the end of those 2-3 days.
Regardless, I dread taking the interior panels off and trying to put a separate power lead in for the fridge. It would seem that there may be no way around that, though...
Regardless, I dread taking the interior panels off and trying to put a separate power lead in for the fridge. It would seem that there may be no way around that, though...
Bender said:
The interior panels on the LR3 are very easy to disassemble. Everything is held together with simple v-shaped spring clips. It litteraly just pulls apart.
As for battery drain, yes, it is my understanding that the LR3 monitors itself even when off, and that there are several systems that stay energized. I am not terribly familar with them, as my truck is more basic, but the air suspsension equipped models are known to run their compressors at times, to level the car, even when the car is off.
Perhaps others can chime in on this one, as my knowledge of this is sketchy at best.
BTW, here is a shot of the inside panel where the rear power receptacle is. This is from an article I posted about adding the receptable to models that didn't include one:
http://blog.nextstepdesigns.com/?p=12
http://blog.nextstepdesigns.com/?p=12
Attachments
The air compressor is never activated by the vehicle when the car is switched off - however, some re-leveling via the air tank can occur.
I had my dealer rewire my rear DC socket to be always on. Took them 15 min and $30 AUS. So it shouldn't be a problem.
Cheers,
Gordon
I had my dealer rewire my rear DC socket to be always on. Took them 15 min and $30 AUS. So it shouldn't be a problem.
Cheers,
Gordon
The answer to this is so painfully simple it's a wonder our resident LR3 "expert" with all of his vast "experience" doesn't know it.
The LR3 is so overwhelmingly complicated and it's many interlaced electrical systems are so intricate that a simple question like constant hot for an aux outlet must require some mystical feat of aftermarket engineering right?
Or at the very least a dedicated socket, new wiring and a whole other battery right?
Wrong.
The solution is waiting for you at Pep Boys.
The LR3 is so overwhelmingly complicated and it's many interlaced electrical systems are so intricate that a simple question like constant hot for an aux outlet must require some mystical feat of aftermarket engineering right?
Or at the very least a dedicated socket, new wiring and a whole other battery right?
Wrong.
The solution is waiting for you at Pep Boys.
JSQ, you forgot that my "poverty pack LR3" as you like to call it, does not have the air suspension and other features that might drain current with the key off, thus without personal first hand knowledge of it, i said I didn't know.
So I get ripped on when I know something, and ripped on when I don't and I'm upfront about it. Interesting.
So I get ripped on when I know something, and ripped on when I don't and I'm upfront about it. Interesting.
D
D Chapman
Guest
To answer the question, just find a hot wire and relay it to the socket. As mentioned, there is one on each side of the truck in the tail light wiring harness. This wire is for the trailer plug, but can be tapped into simple enough.
A better option would be to run a dedicated 4ga+ wire to the rear of the truck and use a distribution power block. That way, you could add more than one cigar lighter, or even an inverter, amp, lights, etc.......
As far as the electrics go, the LR3 is pretty cool in that department - sort of. The ECU manages the power usage and will regulate accordingly. Tami had only 10.4 volts of power left in her battery after something fucked up in it. But, with only 10.4 volts, the battery would still start the car, continuously, for over a week. The LR3 will "power off" certain components when it senses a low power situation and deactivate things it really does not need. That only leads me to think that there would be a way to wire for such things as an Engel only to have the factory ECU "turn it off" when the power is getting low.
A better option would be to run a dedicated 4ga+ wire to the rear of the truck and use a distribution power block. That way, you could add more than one cigar lighter, or even an inverter, amp, lights, etc.......
As far as the electrics go, the LR3 is pretty cool in that department - sort of. The ECU manages the power usage and will regulate accordingly. Tami had only 10.4 volts of power left in her battery after something fucked up in it. But, with only 10.4 volts, the battery would still start the car, continuously, for over a week. The LR3 will "power off" certain components when it senses a low power situation and deactivate things it really does not need. That only leads me to think that there would be a way to wire for such things as an Engel only to have the factory ECU "turn it off" when the power is getting low.
Interesting information Dan. That definitely gives me a little more breathing room with the electrical requirements and load.
Long term I will run a dedicated wire/power block. For now I'm simply trying to satisfy my addiction to the Engel while also introducing my family to camping. My wife isn't much of a camping fan, but has managed to endure it the few times I've taken her with me on trips in the D1. Usually I'm solo when doing anything close to being considered "off-road." We now have a 4 mos old and I want to be able to take the whole family out for some basic camping trips- - and the D1 just isn't big enough (with child seat in place, front seats are too far forward for comfort).
If successful with my camping introductions, then down the road I would use the LR3 for more adventurous trips with the entire (and growing?) family. That would then lead to more useful, long-term modifications such as the power lead, winch, armor, communicatinos, etc. Plus gives a little more time for the aftermarket to mature.
Or maybe just get a 110... That hasn't been ruled out, but I'd feel the need to ditch the D1, which I'm loath to do.
Anyway, that's why I'm looking for a simple solution at this point. The tail light harness sounds like a good place to start.
Thanks to all for suggestions/experiences and the always fun DWeb commentary.
Long term I will run a dedicated wire/power block. For now I'm simply trying to satisfy my addiction to the Engel while also introducing my family to camping. My wife isn't much of a camping fan, but has managed to endure it the few times I've taken her with me on trips in the D1. Usually I'm solo when doing anything close to being considered "off-road." We now have a 4 mos old and I want to be able to take the whole family out for some basic camping trips- - and the D1 just isn't big enough (with child seat in place, front seats are too far forward for comfort).
If successful with my camping introductions, then down the road I would use the LR3 for more adventurous trips with the entire (and growing?) family. That would then lead to more useful, long-term modifications such as the power lead, winch, armor, communicatinos, etc. Plus gives a little more time for the aftermarket to mature.
Or maybe just get a 110... That hasn't been ruled out, but I'd feel the need to ditch the D1, which I'm loath to do.
Anyway, that's why I'm looking for a simple solution at this point. The tail light harness sounds like a good place to start.
Thanks to all for suggestions/experiences and the always fun DWeb commentary.
gordonwh said:
I was reading the manual this morning and noticed this statement that confirms what Gordon wrote, and in a way, does confirm that yes, there are a few electronic systems that remain active in the vehicle after it is switched off.
"Periodic Re-levelling
When the vehicle is parked, the air suspension control module 'wakes up' two hours after
the ignition was last switched off and then once every six hours. The vehicle height is
checked and if the vehicle is not level within a pre-set tolerance, small downwards height
adjustments may be made automatically."
I still haven't read the correct answer...
I know you guys can figure this one out, put your heads together.
I know you guys can figure this one out, put your heads together.
D
D Chapman
Guest
When it levels, it's not the compressor running. Tami calls it "farting" because it sounds as if the truck farts as it lets air out of the bags.