Gents,
Am having overheating issues primarily after running down the highway for more than 45minutes.
Went into the red once, DashCommand was showing 240 - coolant steamed but never bubbled over, and limped home later.
Shop changed T-stat and burped - still overheating after 40minutes.
Everything checks out - fan clutch and water pump fairly new, belt routed correctly, auxiliary fans ok.
No coolant loss or contamination, no exhaust white smoke, oil cap clean.
Peeked at rad - dirty in front of fan, and looks like the fins have turned green.
Will be ordering a Nissens and new brass plug- at $50 more than the Ebay ones but seems to have a better rep, and made in Denmark.
1 - Anything I should watch out for in removing / installing? Things likely to break? Washers/gaskets to replace?
I understand the Nissens will come with all washers and gaskets (hopefully).
Can I use CRC throttle body cleaner to clean out all connections?
Anything I can paint or spray on the new rad against winter rust, or not bother?
2 -Draining - seems to be a variety of techniques (lower rad hose, or suction from rad fill plug and coolant expansion tank),
or this: https://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/coolant-hose-thermostat-replacement-discovery-1/
Lower of two bolts to the side of water pump, good for 85" drain without the mess???
Does this sound right -
A} Add Prestone Flush a day before. Drive with heater on to flush heater core.
B) Drain when cold - Remove t-stat - then flush with water hose and heater on - Drain
C }Remove old Rad - Replace -
D) Flush with Distilled water - Drain - new coolant in - bleed.
currently on pink/orange coolant - what's the latest consensus for D1?
3) Have new Stant Superstat 180 and OEM ECT sensor - I assume I need to do this with coolant drained?
4) Thinking of replacing the PCV valves, but scared of screwing up the oil separator....anyone done this?
Thanks in advance. Sorry for the neediness. Will be hiring a shade tree mechanic so I can do most of the work, and learn!
Am having overheating issues primarily after running down the highway for more than 45minutes.
Went into the red once, DashCommand was showing 240 - coolant steamed but never bubbled over, and limped home later.
Shop changed T-stat and burped - still overheating after 40minutes.
Everything checks out - fan clutch and water pump fairly new, belt routed correctly, auxiliary fans ok.
No coolant loss or contamination, no exhaust white smoke, oil cap clean.
Peeked at rad - dirty in front of fan, and looks like the fins have turned green.
Will be ordering a Nissens and new brass plug- at $50 more than the Ebay ones but seems to have a better rep, and made in Denmark.
1 - Anything I should watch out for in removing / installing? Things likely to break? Washers/gaskets to replace?
I understand the Nissens will come with all washers and gaskets (hopefully).
Can I use CRC throttle body cleaner to clean out all connections?
Anything I can paint or spray on the new rad against winter rust, or not bother?
2 -Draining - seems to be a variety of techniques (lower rad hose, or suction from rad fill plug and coolant expansion tank),
or this: https://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/coolant-hose-thermostat-replacement-discovery-1/
Lower of two bolts to the side of water pump, good for 85" drain without the mess???
Does this sound right -
A} Add Prestone Flush a day before. Drive with heater on to flush heater core.
B) Drain when cold - Remove t-stat - then flush with water hose and heater on - Drain
C }Remove old Rad - Replace -
D) Flush with Distilled water - Drain - new coolant in - bleed.
currently on pink/orange coolant - what's the latest consensus for D1?
3) Have new Stant Superstat 180 and OEM ECT sensor - I assume I need to do this with coolant drained?
4) Thinking of replacing the PCV valves, but scared of screwing up the oil separator....anyone done this?
Thanks in advance. Sorry for the neediness. Will be hiring a shade tree mechanic so I can do most of the work, and learn!
