Series Panel Material?

jeepfiend

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
110
0
Southeast Idaho
It is looking more and more like I am going to keep the rotted out Series I got on eBay. I have been looking the body over, and for the most part, it is not too bad (at least the aluminum parts), but there are a few holes where the Al was in contact with rusted steel parts. I will TIG patch panels in, but i want to be sure I have the correct filler rod. I am guessing that the panels are probably a 2XXX or maybe a 5XXX, because of formability. Any info would be helpful. I was going to fix this Series a little at a time, but looking it over, I think the body has to come off first thing. I need to address some frame issues, but I figure while I have it off, I had just as well replace and repair the rotted panels.

By the way, since the guy is not working with me, I am going to publicize his poor business practices. The fellow's name is Matt Platt, he and his father own M and S Autos in Bradenton Florida. They have a restored Series for sale right now, on their website. They sell a lot of odd British cars. The restored Series on their site looks good, but I wouldn't touch it with a 10ft. pole! The Series I bought from them looked good in pictures, but reality is a whole different matter. Just a word to the wise, stay away from M and S Autos in Bradenton Florida. Also, they are affiliated with a company called the Far East Trading Company (not the one that Ollie North started). I made my payment to the Far East Trading Company (I assume this is also owned by the Platts, since it was a Platt who signed for my payment), the Far East Trading Company is located Longboat Key, FL. I would stay away from both of these companies, the proprietors are clearly dishonest!
Thanks
Kris
 

jeepfiend

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
110
0
Southeast Idaho
Tom,
Thanks for the info. From what I read, it sounds like it might torch weld a little better. I will probably just replace the rear floor, so that will give me some good material to hone my rusty torch skills on, as well as some patch pieces for other parts of the body. I figured it had to a 5XXX or a 2XXX alloy. I suppose it is the magnesium that makes it a little tricky. Too much heat too long and you probably get a great flash as a large piece of panel falls away. I might just have my brother do the welding on the Al, he has spent a lot more time welding aluminum than I have (farmer that fixes a lot of sprinkler pipe). Thanks for the info.
Kris
 
I

ISUZUROVER

Guest
I have welded Land Rover panels countless times with both a MIG and a TIG with no problems. The "Birmabright" is not very fussy what you weld it with. The MIG I used was set up for welding marine grade Alloy - so was running wire for welding 5xxx. The TIG used the same wire (I think), but Birmabright is not fussy. The only hard part is dealing with such thin panels - if you can, clamp a block of Brass underneath where you are welding to take the excess heat.
 

jeepfiend

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
110
0
Southeast Idaho
Good idea, I think I actually have a chuck of copper that will work for the heatsink. We used to use that technique to weld T-1 flanges on trailer frames. The heat sink works great, and keeps the material from getting too hot.
Thanks,
Kris