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Jeremy Parkhouse
| Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 02:15 pm: |
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To anyone reading, I am about to fit Warn XD9000 winch, 4x Hella 4000s lamps + work light, I may want to run a fridge. What battery system would suit. I think I have already decided on an Optima set up, but which one I don't know. I have been to their website but I'm none the wiser! Whats the best mix of battery for my usage, two blues, or two yellows or red + yellow? Any help most welcome....I'm about to put the order through. Cheers Jeremy Parkhouse (Dhahran, Saudi Arabia) |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 02:21 pm: |
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Jeremy: While I'm not as knowledgeable about the Optimas as most on the board, I have done the dual battery route. While you have identified the loads you will be applying to these batteries, what sort of driving do you have in mind-long distance desert treks, or short one day off-roading outings? Some might say that wiring the batteries simply in parallel is the way to go, but if you are going to be out inthe middleof nowhere, it may amke more sense to use an isolator so that one battery is available for cranking in the event the primary goes down. Some more food for thought. BTW-how's the weather there, hot I suppose:-) Peace, Paul |
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Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 03:17 pm: |
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Check out www.hellroaring.com for a few dual battery systems that give you some additonal flexibility vs. a simple parallel hook up. Bill |
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Tom Rowe
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2002 - 07:11 am: |
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I've put dual batteries in my D1, removing the jack and cutting off the air cleaner box horn. I'm planning on a body lift and then will probably mount the deep cycle underneath on it's side, just outboard the frame rail. I'm using the Exide orbital, http://www.exideworld.com/products/trans/productdetail/truck_orbital_automotive_starting.html I chose this after hearing/reading that Optima reccomneds against using a battery isolator. I talked to a design engineer at Exide and he said there is absolutley no problem using the isolator with their batteries. I'm glad I did, especially the time I left my lights on and had to jump from my winch battery. I'm using a Surepower battery isolator. The standard one, which can be had for about $70 results in a bit of a voltage drop, but you can spend more and get a Schotky diode isolator that lessens the drop. Use LARGE cable to lessen the voltage drop (idealy you want less than 0.5% over the length). I think I have #1, or maybe #1/0 welding cable from the battery to the winch, and #8 from the alternator to the isolator to the batteries and fuse box. I just disconnected the stock alt-fuse box cable and left it in place. I reccomend against using a simple solenoid to seperate the batteries. If one is complelely dead, and you open the solenoid, you have a major current flow going to the dead battery. Most solenoids are only rated at about 75amp continous, though Cole Hersee makes a 200amp one similar to the old Ford type. Cheers |
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Mark Albrecht
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2002 - 12:36 pm: |
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Somewhat off the topic -- Tom: if you ever run in water, you may want to reconsider the battery placement after the body lift as you'll short out. On the topic -- Jeremy, I'd use an isolator with an optima red top as the primary battery and a deep cycle (the marine one -- I can never remember which is yellow or blue) as a reserve/winching/lights battery. I've run the CES Good Samaritan isolator package with good results. You get all the parts (for a price) and an isolator with an in-cab switch that will let you select a) just the main battery with the reserve in reserve, b) using the resrve to jump the main, and c) the reserve and main together for long term winching, etc. |
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Tom Rowe
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 11:34 am: |
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Mark, Why's that? They are sealed. As long as I protect it from getting debris on it in such a way as to leave a connection between posts, I can't think of why it would be a problem. I don't see it as any different than having your winch and solenoids submerged. That said, I'm always open to an education ;-) |
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Scott Copeland
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 01:34 pm: |
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Anyone try the Dynabatt as a second battery? |
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Nick B
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 03:16 pm: |
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This might be a little of topic.. I was trying to do something similiar but in my Range Rover classic. unfortunatley in the RR there isnt that much room to add another battery. someone suggested a high output alternator. Could a high output alternator serve as an alternative to a dual battery set up? |
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Scott Copeland
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 04:39 pm: |
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The Dynabatt is 7" X 3" X 6.5" weighs 13.5lbs. Checkout www.jimcookperformance.com. |
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Mark Albrecht
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 05:23 pm: |
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Tom: unless you can effectively seal off the terminals and leads, submerging the battery in water will result in a short water is a conductor). Of course you're in the desert, so it may not matter that much. |
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