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James Gall (Jimmyg)
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 02:54 pm: |
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I am stepping up from 2inch lift to 4inch lift and was wondering what kind of front driveshaft I will need and where can I find one? Thanks, James |
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Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 02:58 pm: |
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D2? Or D1? |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 03:20 pm: |
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If you need one, Great Basin Rovers comes well recommended. High Angle Driveline seems to be well respected too. Tom Woods is yet another. Scorpion has some nice ones, but I believe they are horrendously expensive. I was talking to a fella at lunch (you meet the nicest folks driving a Rover) who told me about having heavy duty driveshafts made for $80 each by a company in Indianapolis, Patterson Driveshaft. He was bragging about his CV jointed driveshaft with a CV (he said came) from a '53 Caddy. There are any of a number of different sources for driveshafts, again, if you have exceeded the capabilities of the stocker. Paul |
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Eric N (Grnrvr)
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 03:28 pm: |
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Call Tom Woods for your drive shafts.. Follow this link for the number http://www.4xshaft.com/ |
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James Gall (Jimmyg)
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 05:07 pm: |
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It's for a D1. Will I be able to get away with the CV driveshaft or one of those double cardon ones. I know nothing about this so forgive my ignorance. |
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E Snyder
| Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 09:08 pm: |
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James- I looked into this fairly extensively this past year, and there are some good past threads on D-Web to search for. I got conflicting information I felt like, in that some folks seemed to think the double cardon would be better, some folks thought it would be worse. It further complicates the issue when you correct the castor on your truck (which I would recommend, because it handles WAY better). Once I swapped out the rear shaft to a RR Classic shaft I found my vibrations pretty much went away. At least enough for my driving taste. I would start there if you haven't already, before you do the front. And definitely get the lift on and see what happens before you start swapping driveshafts. Discos vary in how much they vibrate with what height lift anyway, and you might be just fine. One thing I have noticed, however, is that the stock front shaft rubs on the front sway bar when fully articulated. I'll probably take the sway bar off or add washers to space it down a bit. As we have talked about, I still have a used (almost brand new, actually) DII double-cardon shaft, which I'm thinking I'll hang on to for future use. But you can check with various junk yards/used parts places, if you find that you need one. I think you have to get the flange from the transfer case side as well. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong about that, please.) See ya, Enoch |
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James Gall (Jimmyg)
| Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 01:10 am: |
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Enoch, I ordered my rear driveshaft conversion last week to replace my torn up rotoflex, and to fix my rear pinion leak. I have no sway bars so rubbing is no problem. And, I will correct my castor by RTE. Knowing that, anything else that I may need to know? What's the link to that place in Fl. or any others? Saw the Blue Fj-60 coming out of the down town mall last week. You ready to hit any trails around here? I think I might try out by crabtree falls or levels this sunday. Later, James |
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E Snyder
| Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 09:39 am: |
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James- Get all of that done, and then see if you need to replace the front driveshaft. Call or email Robert Kempton at www.roverlandparts.com when the time comes to look for one. Enoch PS- I'm gone this weekend, so no local wheeling. I'll keep you posted about upcoming weekends. |
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Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 10:53 am: |
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If you do get a DII shaft, you should replace the u-joints with a greaseable type. Matt |
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