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Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My '00 DII is comming up on 50k miles, and I'm thinking about switching to synthetic engine oil. Probably Mobile One, since it sounds like lots of people are happy with it.

To make the switch, I concerned about a couple of issues:

1. Old oil. Is it good enough to simply drain out the old oil, and do a regular change of the oil and filter, or will there be a contamination issue?

2. Viscosity. Here in So. Cal. the dealership uses 20/50 Valvoline. So, when changing the oil, I've been using the same. When switching to synthetic, do I need to adjust the viscosity, or stay the same?

Thanks,
Erik
 

perroneford
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 08:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

1. I drained mine and put in Mobil 1. I took the time to drop the oil pan, but I had over 100k miles, and it had a leaky seal.

2. I am using 20w50 here in Florida with no ill effects. I used 10w40 dino. I wouldn't worry about changing viscosity in your case.

Best of luck,

-P
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sorry for the newbie question, but why drop the oil pan? To clean it out?
 

John Moore (Jmoore)
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I switched to syn oil in my 88RRC and have been very happy. Go to www.mobil1.com. They will answer many of your questions.

Only bad thing is that the stuff is so slippery, if you have a leak, it will get worse with syn.

-John
 

Brian Edwards
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I prefer amsoil or royal purple syn oils. They are much better quality than Mobil 1. Stay with the same weight oil though. Amsoil also makes a motor flush to prepare syn use, you don't have to use it, It just cleans your engine faster and lets your syn last longer. Make sure you use a good oil filter. Do not use a fram oil filter, they suck. Amsoil, K & N, Mobil 1, and Hastings are the best oil filters in that order.
www.amsoil.com
www.royalpurple.com
 

perroneford
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Erik,

I dropped the pan because I wanted to be sure that there wasn't sludge in the pan after the truck had done 100k+ miles. I knew Synth would loosen those deposits and might start carrying them around the engine. I found a quite clean pan and everything was in good order. And as I said, the thing was leaking anyway, so I got a chance to re-seal it.

Brian, I think I agree with you that Amsoil and Royal Purple are probably better. I chose Mobil 1 first because I wanted to make sure the more slippery synth wasn't going to leak too much. I have stayed with it for 2 oil changes for now simply because it's very easy for me to get. I've now found a good source fof Amsoil and I may change over.

I use the Purlolator Pure One filter which I am happy with, but given my choice, I would likely go with the Mobil 1 filter. The Pure One has been good to me so far, and I've gone with the larger version that emulates the Fram PH1. Twice the filtration of the stock unit.

-P
 

Brian Edwards
Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Amsoil filter is sdf15, K & N is hp-3001. Those both are the larger filters. Pure-One is middle of the road, good filter, but not the best. I am not throwing off on mobil 1, It is a good oil, a whole lot better than dino, and is easy to find. Just the others are much better at approx the same price. You can order Amsoil directly from their webpage. Jeg's sells Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is everywhere.
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 01:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

What makes Amsiol, or Royal Purple 'much better' than Mobile 1?

Also, what is the difference in filters? Cleaner oil? Better lubrication through increased flow?

Will the genuine filter be happy with synthetic oils?
 

perroneford
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

They are more slippery than most other oils, they leave fewer deposits behind, hold up under heat and pressure better than most, and they prevent rust better than most other oils.

Better filters take more crap out of the oil, prevent stuff that's already been caught from getting back into the flow of the oil, and don't restrict flow as much as other filters.

Filters don't care whether you use dino or synth.

-P
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know synthetic oils are more slippery, etc. than dino oils, what I was asking, was mostly of Brian, was: Why would Amsoil or Royal Purple be better than Mobile 1?
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Erik, like most people who claim Amsoil is better than Mobil 1, they dont really know why. It's usually a "friend" told them so or something they read (on an Amsoil seller's site, no doubt) on the internet. Blah, blah, blah, same sh1t. Mobil 1 is more than adequate for your car and you can buy it everywhere. Use whatever you want and you'll be fine.
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That's pretty much my assesment of almost all competing products. I guess it's off to the 'net I go looking for third party comparisons...
 

brian edwards
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well the main reason I would recommend both amsoil and royal purple is that the meet the api service level that is called for in my 99 DII owners manual(sg,sh, or sj), Mobil 1 is only sl/cp api rated.Mobil 1 has the worst cold cranking, viscosity index, noack volatility, along with the worst four-ball wear test. If you want the specific #'s of how they tested, just give me a day to compile all the numbers, so they can be compared easily.
The difference in oil filters are, quality of shell, type of filter material, the size of particle they filter out, and the amount of particles they can hold. Good filters have anti-drain back valves that keep dirty oil for leaking back into the oil pan, they also keep the oil system primed so less wear at start-up. On my IH Scout motors, fram always causes lifter tick at start-up, where Mobil1 or Amsoil filters have no lifter tick.
Yes Mobil 1 is a good oil that is easy to get, any mass store carries it? But after doing all the research, I feel that Amsoil and Royal Purple are my oils of choice, and I do not prefer one over the other. I do not know what api is recommended on older rovers, because I only have a 99 d2, but according to my owners manual, and the mobil 1 website, then mobil 1 does not qualify. Use what you want, I sell neither. Bill K how is it more than adequate , or are you just doing the blah, blah blah, same sh1t uneducated opinion?
 

RJ Clayton (Tozovr)
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 10:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just stay away from Fram filters...Napa Gold and Wix are the same and are of a VERY good construction. I run Amsoil with the Amsoil filters...
Amsoil and Red Line have better additive packages. They are designed for extended drain intervals (which you don't need to do...I do 7K on Amsoil) Mobil 1's additive package is designed for more frequent drain intervals. Well it was, as they just recently changed to the "Tri-Synthetic" formula...whatever that is...


RJ
 

Todd Phenneger
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 04:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have to chime in now,
Coming from the Audi Quattro List, we go over the Synth Oils often as our Turbo motors love synth. esp when many of us are pushing over 25-30psi of boost. :-)
I went to some sites for large corporations but found the US Military to have the most imformative testing. (At least published testing)
The end result was that Redline and Amsoil were the best followed "very slightly" by Mobil 1. A little ways back from that was Castrol Syntech and then the new Valvoline Synthetic.
Keep in mind that one oil may have better viscosity or a lower pour point but the other may have a hight flash point. But the Average was as I typed above.
End result, I ran Mobil 1 bucause its easy to get. I run Redline in the Race Car because I can get it locally but havent found an AMsoil dealer locally.
HOWEVER...Mobil 1 JUST changed their formula. The NEW IMPROVED formula is not nearly as good. They have left the fully synthetic stocks they shared with Amsoil and Redline and moved to mixed stocks like Castrol and Valvoline use. (Most of us belive this is why the Amsoil/Redline oil performed so much better) So Now I run Mobil 1 in my Rover (its plenty good for the Rover) but will run AMsoil or Redline in the Audi's.
ALSO...IF you have a Manual •••••• Disco (or any car with a manual), I would HIGHLY recomend using the Redline MTL or MT-90 Gear oils. They ahve a special lubricant added to enhance synchro action and it DOES work. every person I know who has used it has some away impressed. Even coming from using Amsoil/Redline standard gear oil.
As for Mixing, mix away. There is no inherint problem with haveing some Dyno in you SYnthetic oil.
l8r
Todd 1 Discovery and 3 Audi's.
 

RJ Clayton (Tozovr)
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Todd, know what's funny? is that what Mobil 1 just did to their formula is EXCACTLY what they brought Castrol to court about, claiming it wasn't a true synthetic!
Man, the whole "if ya can't beat 'em, join 'em" thing is unfortunately true here huh?

Here's a good filter test page from a Turbo Mopar guy Oil Filter Study

RJ
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Todd, please post some links from the govt site that says mobil 1 is behind Amsoil. Also, no offence, but I've checked out the Audi boards and those guys 1) can't agree on anything and 2) Dont seem to know their asses from a hole in the ground. There was SPECULATION that Mobil would change their formula like Castrol. SPECULATION. RUMOR. ASSUMPTIONS.
 

newdisco
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bill K,
You seem to know that mobil 1 is better, then how about showing us some links that say so? No offence, but you seem full of speculation, assumptions yourself.
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I never said it was better. My argument is that Amsoil is not some "wonder oil" as advertised. If you bothered to read my previous posts you would know that I am saying ANY synthetic oil brand would be more than adequate. Use whatever you want, I don't care.
 

Norm
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I don't know about Mobil 1, but I would avoid Amsoil motor oil in a Rover V8, especially the 20W-50 Racing oil. Although it works great in my turbocharged Saab 9-5, Amsoil is probably TOO slick for a Rover V8.

I tried the Amsoil in a RPi 4.6 and found that I was losing about 1/2 quart every fill up. I couldn't find any leaks or evidence of it dripping on and burning off the exhaust, so apparently it was blowing by the rings.

RPi recommends against using synthetic motor oil in their Rover V8s because it's too slick to provide enough "lift" to the hydraulic lifters, which would lead to premature cam wear. That might have explained the "fluttering" sensation I was getting on hard accelleration at 3500 rpm and above. RPi recommends using Valvoline 20W-50 Racing Oil (dino), which I switched to and have not had those problems since.

Otherwise, I use Redline MTL in the transmission and Amsoil gear oil in the diffs, swivel balls, etc. with no ill effects.

---Normorsch2
 

eric
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I agree with Perrone about cleaning things out before changing to synth.
I bought a RR with 150K anbout 6 months ago. P.O. said it was using Syth. but can't confirm.
I switched to 20-50 Amsoil with Baldwin filters. (same as Ferrari) At 160K, got the stuck lifter noise - loud tapping. Tear-down revealed a plugged rocker arm. The push-rod had pounded the steel insert back into the rocker arm about 1/8".
So, synth. will most likely loosen up any junk.
If your engine is clean, your probably O.K.
As you can see, mine was a high milage engine of average to below average maintainence. Lots of crusty, sooty crude stuck to everything that didn't move.

Learn from my bitter pill of experience.

eric
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Eric, I also had worries like yours. Mine was bought at 85k miles, PO didnt do much maintenance. I immediately switched to Mobil 1 15w-50 (as I use in all other cars). I am at 134k miles now and I can hear a slight tapping noise recently , but i guess its just from the mileage, as the engine still runs strong. I too have sludge everywhere.

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