| Author |
Message |
    
Robert Rubenzik
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 12:45 am: | 
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99 DII; How do I lock or unlock the center differential? It's not shown in the manual. |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 01:52 am: |
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There is no way to lock it from within the cabin, on the stock 'north american' model. Search for CDL and you'll find lots of ideas for creating a mechanism to utilize it. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 06:26 am: |
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If you just want to try it once, climb under with a short wrench, feel around till you find the bolt, and turn it clockwise (from above) about 20-30 degrees. Drive around for a bit until the sensor/light comes on. Note unless the engine is already on you will loose ETC and ABS if you start with the CDL locked.
When you realise you want this more easily, you'll have to either buy a CDL kit (alhough they are quite expensive) or attach a makeshift arm and handle (bolt is 8mm metric), and a sensor cut-off switch for convenience.
Dean |
Michael Noe (Noee)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 06:48 am: |
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Couple of details...the bolt is actually 10mm fit and there are a few very affordable options:
Salvaged D1 Linkage
Skerrit linkage kit
Greg Davis DIY |
Kim S (Roverine)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 12:45 pm: |
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I know many people that have started off very simply, with the makeshift arm and handle. As Dean mentioned above, the kits, while more expensive, make it much easier.
There is also a kit which utilizes a solenoid actuator, as opposed to the mechanical options that Michael has provided links to above. I believe Great Basin Rovers is one supplier that sells them.
As far as the kits go: Both methods have their pros and cons. The solenoid part is more expensive, and even though it is sealed, some may argue that because because it is a solenoid, it has the inherit potential to be less reliable. However, the solenoid is much less invasive in terms of installation (ie. the transfer case, and cutting in the console, which can produce more noise in the cabin while driving). As Erik above suggested, do a search on CDL, and you will be kept quite busy with reading material.
FWIW, I bought the linkage from a D1, however, I changed my mind, and put a solenoid actuator in. (LOL, I'm still hanging onto the D1 linkage for the time being).
Best wishes,
Kim |
Kent Westbrook (Kentwest)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 05:03 pm: |
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Kim, how long did it take you to do that solenoid install? I've heard it's a pain, just curious. I have one of Dean's handy "outside the cab" activators, which has worked fine. But it would be nice to do everything from inside.
Kent |
Kim S (Roverine)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 07:22 pm: |
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Kent,
I did not do the install myself (LOL, no way for me!). It took about 3 hours, however there was help. I dunno, I've heard (can't remember where) that it is important to get the install on those solenoids just right or it can get screwed up a bit ... (maybe I heard it from GBR?) I'm pretty sure Craig Kobayashi did his own install of one not too long ago. Maybe ask him to get a better idea - He's done both the mechanical (with D1 linkage) and the solenoid installs.
Yeah, it is nice and convenient, but it sure was expensive. It was just a personal choice for me.
Cheers,
Kim  |
Kyle Beckman (Kbeckman)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 07:27 pm: |
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Kent,
It took me about six hours to do the install. It's not too difficult, but the space where you install it is kind of cramped so it's slow going. You really need to drop the drive shaft to get more room. The hardest part was removing the detent spring. The directions were somewhat vague, so I spent alot of time scratching my head trying to figure out what they were describing. I ended up posting a question here, and I found a picture in the shop manual that helped alot. Even after I found the darn thing, in was a real PITA removing it. The electrical stuff was pretty straight forward.
Kyle |
John Friederich
| | Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 09:40 pm: |
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Another option is the motor actuated unit from AMV in Australia. The only modification you need to make is a small hole into the area your coin tray occupied - a factory looking switch and LED takes its place.
Install took an hour or two per night after work for a week. If I worked straight through on a second one, I could get it done in 4 hours, not counting beer breaks.
-John F |
curquieta
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 01:28 am: |
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My solution cost $5.24 of hardware, took less than an hour to fabricate and install, and only requires dropping to one knee to engage and it's easy to remove if your dealer is picky about warranty work.
The instruction are under DII CDL Poor Mans Solution thread. |
Todd W. Sitler (Tws)
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 05:53 am: |
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curquieta
Where are the instructions located? |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 09:27 am: |
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../2/10142.html"#333333"> |
Kent Westbrook (Kentwest)
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 09:30 am: |
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I've got the poor man's, one-knee solution right now, which works perfectly fine. Just thinking it'd be nice one day to engage while sitting comfy inside the cab. John F., I hadn't heard about the AMV thing, any info on the web for that one? Kyle B., maybe I'll just recruit your assistance, since I know you live close! |
Kent Westbrook (Kentwest)
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 09:31 am: |
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OK, I'm a dumbass, just saw your thread on the AMV, John. |
John Friederich
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 10:23 am: |
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Kent -
I can sure help... Where do you live? Feel free to email off-list if you wish.
John F
[email protected] |
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