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Randall Smith
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have been fighting a vibration problem for 6 months now. This battle is costing too much time and money. The only way that I can drive down the freeway in peace is when the front drive shaft is removed from the truck. So I was thinking about selectable 4WD(rear wheel drive for everyday, select 4WD on those special days).

Has any one contemplated have some sort of selectable 4 wheel drive for our trucks? I think the 3 Jeeps that I have owned had a lever for puting the truck in 4WD, but I don't know how it worked.

Please do not suggest that I sould check to see if my tires are balanced or if new u-joints are needed, etc. Want to know if selectable 4WD is possible.

Randall
 

Shane
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Timm Cooper has a part time conversion:
http://www.bcboffroad.com/

Not much info on the website so you will probably have to call
 

Eric N (Grnrvr)
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know you didn't want questions like this but, what type of front drive shaft are you running and where did you get it?
 

Ron
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bearcrap ah I mean bearmach has a kit from AVM as well. 250 I think.

Ron
 

Randall Smith
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the leads. Tells me other people need this also.

There is no problem when you are actually going off-road. It's the drive to the trailhead which is ruined. I need an exit strategy on the front driveshaft problem. Could write a book about all the time and money spent on trying to end it.

For some examples:

Replace u-joints
Replace with Tom Woods DC DS
Try different phases of u-joints
Send Tom Woods DS off the re-check balance
Send Tom Woods DS back to Tom Woods get correct length this time.
Still not correct length, so make new adapter myself so that it really is correct length this time.
Tried swapping rear driveshafts.

Have also replaced transfer box, and front axles and CVs. Rebuilt just about everything that might even remotely be connected to the DS. Tried swapping diff assemblies, and diffs. Changing tires makes no difference.

However, I have almost totally new drive train on the truck now(with a credit card bill to match). There is no klunk in my drivetrain anymore either.

Not giving up...yet
Randall
 

abby (Abby)
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dear vibrational randall,

how much lift do you have? stock radius arms?
how about rear shaft? stock? stock trailing arms?


abby.
 

MTB
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Have your checked the front output shaft bearing on the T-case.
 

hendrik
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 06:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi Randall,

at least you can definately say that the vibration is coming from the front axle. More than I can say from myself and my rig ;(

I remember some of your postings. But - not sure now - have you checked the alignment of the track rod ?!! The wheels probably are well balanced (with Series I-III rims there were problems because they need to be stud mounted and not in the center hole; this does not count for the alloys though AFAIK). Panhard rod bushes ? I´ve heard/read of a Disco (LRO-mag owned I think) that didn´t harmonize with some brand of tires. Changing to another cured the problem (not clear to me still if it wasn´t balancing-related in that case). What about the front shocks.

Generally it seems like Rover did/does have problems with the front axles, "harmonic dampers" (i.e. the disc at diff nose and little bars below the swivel pin housing) were added during the years. Could be that using bigger tires (in the 32" range) helps because the do less revolutions and that lessens some of the vibrations.

Don´t give up. part-time 4wd is a huuuuuuge step back ;)
 

hendrik
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 07:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

... some the very first 110"s almost 20years old now were supplied with a selectable 4WD system, but only on special order. And you´ll have solved the vibrations before having found that t-box by ages.
 

Randall Smith
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Miss Abby

Have 2" lift. Stock dimensioned front radius arms, Rockware rear radius arms. Rear shaft is stock, and vibe does not go away with rear shaft removed, but vanishes anytime I remove the front DS.

Also replaced the front output bearing, then just replaced the whole transfer case with rebuilt. This helped a lot and the truck is now drivable. And so did the Tom Woods DC DS. But vibe is still there. Afraid it will get really bad again.

What makes this so dang frustrating is that you cannot see it, or measure it. I go by how badly my rear view mirrors are shaking. For example if I put the harmonic damper back on, it seems to help a little, but no way to scale it.

I do have more ideas on possible cures. But most involve money or going back to stock parts, which is not the direction that I wanted to go in.

Randall
 

abby (Abby)
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dear Randall,

it is quite encouraging to see that you have't given up on the vehicle. :)

when you say stock dimensined front radius arm, is it an aftermarket radius arms that supposedly mimic stock?

i've had vibes with non stock radius arms. for it changes the pinion angle and the DC DS does not function as designed.

have you tried lowering the vehicle?


abby
 

Randall Smith
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dear Abby

Thanks for responding to my posts, even though you have been dead for several months now.

My right front radius arm is hinged, but all of the locating points are the same as stock. Earlier this week I tried re-torquing all of the suspension mounting hardware(which cost $0). Would say that 1 in 5 points was loose instead of tight. Maybe I'll try putting the stock arm back on.

Also considering lowering to normal height. But will need a few hundred dollars for springs and 8" shocks.

I'm also wondering if my transfer case is missaligned side to side?? (not up and down, side to side)

Making sacrifices to the Rover god didn't help either.

Randall
 

abby (Abby)
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

dear randall,

by lowering the vehicle, i meant somehow putting some heavy load in the front end to bring it down a bit.

as far as transfer case, did you check the Tcase mounts?

dead abbby :)
 

Ali
Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Only if the real Dear Abby answered questions like these in her columns!

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