Author |
Message |
   
M. Recke (Disco_Obsession)
| Posted on Monday, October 21, 2002 - 05:42 am: |
|
My sump gasket seems to be split and is now leaking oil. To replace it, can I just unbolt, lower pan or is there not enough clearance and other parts like stabilizer bars and such need lowering? Any tips to simplify the job would be appreciated. On my 96 disco that there appears to be a rubber type gasket with punched out bolt holes protruding at the front part ot the pan.it appears to be a manufactured gasket that has split and moved out. I was lead to believe that LR uses a silicon gasket cement instead. Whilst in an Auto parts store I looked in a gasket manufactures part listing and they only give a formed gasket for up to disco '94. Thanx in advance |
   
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| Posted on Monday, October 21, 2002 - 08:18 am: |
|
As you guessed - the oil pan is sealed with just RTV silicone. The pan is not hard to drop and there isn't much in the way (not sure if the sway bar interferes or not - I don't have one). You also have to remove the flywheel inspection plate to get the the rearmost bolts on the oil pan. Bill |
   
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| Posted on Monday, October 21, 2002 - 08:40 am: |
|
I dropped the oil pan on my '99 Disco a couple of times.... it's pretty straight forward, lots of bolts to unbolt. On mine, it wasn't a gasket, it was RTV.... well, actually, it was probably Hylosil or some such, but I used RTV to put it back. Just make sure you've got both the pan lip and the mating surface on the block scraped really well. Also, on the bolt that also holds the cooling line bracket, there is a spacer in there... don't lose it! While you have the pan off, drop the oil pick-up tube, and clean the screen in there. -L |
   
M. Recke (Disco_Obsession)
| Posted on Tuesday, October 22, 2002 - 05:12 am: |
|
Thanks Bill & Leslie , since you have done this job before, is there a worry of the oil pump draining and after the time it takes to complete this work and it won't prime? Also is it best to leave the oil filter installed full of oil during the work time.And as you said it's RTV that seals the pan, I am wondering what that piece of gasket material is poking out from the front/side pan lip is, could it be the timing chain cover gasket or something. I suppose I won't find out till I pull the pan off and see what unexpected surprise is there. As far as torquing up the pan bolts, is it critical to use a torque wrench or is finger tight + a couple more turns sufficient? Thanks again, Mario |
   
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| Posted on Tuesday, October 22, 2002 - 08:37 am: |
|
Either someone in the past dropped the pan and tried using a gasket during refit, or... hmmm...... I will always suggest using a torque wrench to tighten the proper amount, but, with that said, I never have.... torque enough, you don't want it to leak or back out from vibrations, but, you don't want to strip or warp anything either. To get the pan out from under there, it is possible to wiggle it a lot and squeeze it by, but, NOT easy, nor fun that way, it is MUCH easier if you go ahead and unbolt the brackets holding the front sway-bar and let the bar hang down. Also, it's difficult to get the pan back into position to refit it w/o smearing the RTV if you put it on while out from under the truck.... I would suggest, when ready for putting it back, is to slide the pan back up above the sway bar, then apply the RTV to the lip, then slide it into position and refit. Good luck! -L PS: I left the oil filter in place each time... I've yet to suffer having the oil-pump lose its prime while doing such, but, it is possible.... don't worry about it, I'd suggest, and deal with it if it does happen, but I doubt it will. FWIW... |
   
M. Recke (Disco_Obsession)
| Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 05:12 am: |
|
Thanks again. Mario |
   
Tom Rowe
| Posted on Monday, October 28, 2002 - 07:31 am: |
|
I posted in another thread, that if you want a gasket, the cork one from a RR classic fits. I used that, the RTV is too damn messy for my liking. The last one I bought was about $6 from DAP (my kids tore the first one in two before I could install it) |
   
M. Recke (Disco_Obsession)
| Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2002 - 04:55 am: |
|
Thanks Tom, Any tricks to install, some say soak Cork gaskets in water first to swell them then re torque them later? I'm in Australia so might have to check if they are avail here. cheers Mario |
|