| Author |
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Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 08:16 am: | 
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I just received a set of diff guards (thanks Dee) and need to remove the panhard rod to get the front on. I'm going to replace the nut holding the panhard with a normal nut and Locktite instead of the Nyloc that is standard. My question is, should I go with stainless here or whatever I can find?
The nut is sized as an M14. Am I going to find that in a hardware store by that or does that translate into something my local store will understand? |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 09:14 am: |
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Steve:
I see little to no reason to go with Stainless for this application, nor do I see any reason to go away from the nyloc nuts. I have found the nyloc nuts to be readily available and inepxensive. That said, I do try to get two uses out of them before replacement (cheap bastard).
As for finding a 14 m/m nut/bolt, it shouldn't be much problem, either your local Home Depot (watch for snipers) or Tractor Supply should have what you need, and probably the nyloc too.
Paul |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 09:48 am: |
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Paul:
Thanks for the input. I am leaning towards not using the nyloc due to some threads about field repairs and such.
I will keep my head down (I work in Rockville).
One more question on the panhard. When I free it, is something going shift and crush my skull? I don't have a lift and will be flat on my back doing this. When I go to put the panhard back, am I going to have difficulty getting everything lined up? I am assuming that something is going to move when I loosen it. |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 12:58 pm: |
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Just went to check on the size, M14, which is what rover's north says it is, is not 14mm but 22mm. IS RN wrong or does Mx not equal xmm? |
hendrik
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 02:51 pm: |
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Mxx tells the diameter of the bolt. If talking about spanners the XX means the width of its jaw.
Like a M10 bolt needs a 17mm spanner.
? What makes a normal nut with loktite easier to remove than a nyloc nut that has been lightly greased.
? The bolts that Rover uses in suspension area are of higher grade than s/s bolts or nuts. I don´t know if the (unevitable in this application) mixing of different grade material has effect on long-term tightness. (One place where s/s bolts should not used is the Rear-A-Frame bracket that holds the ball joint. I´ve heard of someone replacing the two long bolts with s/s and they cracked first time off road.
regards |
Greg Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 03:17 pm: |
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Steve, yes the vehicle will shift to one side when the panhard is released. However, it is very easy to center again for re-assembly.
Have someone start the engine and then turn the steering wheel slightly to one side (which ever causes the body to shift in the correct position), and reinstall the panhard and bolt. No moaning and groaning required!  |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 03:31 pm: |
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I've never had any shifting, not trying to contradict, just saying that you may not even have to worry about that. If it does, Greg's procedure should apply perfectly. |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 03:37 pm: |
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One thought to muddy the waters - as long as you have the panhard off, go ahead and replace the bushings - you can get a "kit" from Rover Connection (and others of course) that has the bushes, new nuts and bolts - all genuine stuff for about $20.00
If this is a D1 with original bushings - it's about time anyway.
IMO
(maniacal about bushing replacement),
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 03:37 pm: |
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Greg:
I just did this not too long ago and had no problem reinstalling the panhard rod. But, mechanical things seem to go together for me pretty easily most of the time.
Steve:
I used to live in Mount Washington (Balto), so I am somewhat cognizant of that part of the country and still have many friends there. I wasn't trying to be insensitive. The bolt is probably 14m/m OD, requiring a 22 m/m wrench to remove. Go ahead and remove the bolt, install your diff guards, measure the bolt, reinstall, drive your newly protected truck to the hardware store and buy the new hardware, go home and install new hardware.
Hendrik:
Depends upon the loctite that is used. There are some loctite formulations that require either heat, or huge amounts of torque to break the bond. Some, on the other hand are only intended to be resistant to tampering, yet are easily removed for repairs. There are also several different methods of making locking nuts, each having their own characteristics. In fact, I was just reading in Machine Design magazine about a new method of locking nuts that was really impressive with opposing inclined planes that require huge amounts of torque to overcome the initial resistance, but then spin off freely. Really cool! But, of course, expensive.
Peace,
Paul |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 04:04 pm: |
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Paul: I honestly thought you were looking out for my best interest.
Bill: I thought about doing the bushings but from what I've gleaned from articles and posts, its not something I can do without alot of cutting/burning or a removal tool. In either case, I just don't have the tools. If they simple push out, then I have no problem with it. Polybush Blues (Mostly on-road)? |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 04:25 pm: |
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If you can get access to a press, it is about a 10 minute job (or less) both in and out.
Personally, I can only recommend rubber bushings - don't get me started on the whole current urethane "trend" (insert hand symbol here!) This could turn into a very long thread then.
Bill |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 05:06 pm: |
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My panhard bushes are continually covered in oil from rover leakage. |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 06:13 pm: |
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A press? What is that? |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 08:22 pm: |
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When you re-use a nyloc nut, does it just loose the nyloc function and go about its life as a regular nut? Or does it become incompetant for the job? |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 08:57 pm: |
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It becomes useless. Maybe not on the first reuse but I'd never trust one. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 24, 2002 - 07:06 am: |
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Clif:
It merely loses its locking ability. I have reused them for years with loc-tite, but after having gotten quite a bit older and slightly wiser, I now only reuse them once.
The threads beneath the nylon insert will have the same threadform as a standard nut.
Steve:
Glad you didn't take offense. A press is a frame with a hydraulic ram in it that allows you to place tremendous pressure on something to push a part into or out of an interference fit. I use one for u-joint work as it is fast, safe and less likely to mess things up. But, you can make a big, dangerous mess fast!
Peace,
Paul |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 24, 2002 - 10:16 pm: |
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I didn't know that... thanks Paul & Steve. |
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