| Author |
Message |
    
jrov
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2002 - 07:57 pm: | 
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i need new one because appearently my old ones are loose? anyway 1996 Disco SD.....needs some advise |
Ron
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2002 - 08:46 pm: |
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thatchedroofgarage.com 15 bucks each. hard to do if they are seized, easy if not.
Ron |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 09:12 am: |
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You will need three right hand thread and one left hand thread. $15 each is a good price, I pay $11 from UK.
Use plenty of penetrant (and heat-propane won't get it) or you'll break the stud off in the tie rod requiring a new tie rod or heroic efforts.
The workshop manual says to pull the steering wheel if you need more than five degrees of correction to bring the steering wheel straight, but that's bullshit! I can guarantee you that even if you painstakingly measure the number of turns or the length of the tie rod, the steering wheel won't line up correctly!
You can easily pull the tie rods out of the knuckles using two hammers-or a pickle fork if you must, but the two hammer method really is easier and cleaner-you won't tear the boots.
Upon reinstallation, you may have difficulty seating the tapered stud (the stud will begin to turn before seated). To keep this from happening, take the nut from the old tie rod and slip it over the stud and tightened down on this- it will allow you to tighten up against the knuckle to pull it up to the tapered portion.
In spite of how this may sound, it is pretty easy to do and the improvement dramatic.
Peace,
Paul |
perroneford
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 11:32 am: |
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I, unlike Paul, had no problem keeping my steerinng wheel straight when replacing Tie_rod ends. Not only did I could threads, but I layed a level on the original unit and made certain the top was dead level. Then I locked the vise. When installing the new one, I was able to get the thing to the same install depth to within perhaps a couple of degrees. Install for me was painless. Took about 2 hours start to finish.
Using the old castellated nut to pull the joint down onto the taper was the best thing. Made it go very easy.
-P |
Tom Rowe
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 05:35 pm: |
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I don't know about the ones at TRG, but the ones sold by DAP have zerk fittings, unlike the dealer ones. |
jrov
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 05:47 pm: |
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thanks yall, thats exactly what i needed! |
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