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Bruce
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Blew my CV apart on passenger side, requires Diff lock to drive around. Part will not be in for another week or so.
Question - OK to drive with Diff-lock in high without undue stress, strain etc?

Thanks,
Bruce
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 01:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

someone else comment on the following statement:

would it be better to drop the front shaft & run in 4-high with the center diff locked?
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If it was me, I'd park it 'til the part got there, but, if I HAD to drive it, I'd follow Blue's suggestion...

Problem is, though, even with the shaft dropped, the wheel's rotation is still spinning that grenaded part around, which is gonna do evil things in there....

IMHO, FWIW....

-L
 

Pugsly (Pugsly)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You can pull the broken parts and run with it locked. Normal open diffs are directing all the power to only one wheel anyway.

But I agree with Leslie - much better to park it. I would drive on it to get off the trail and home, but once home there it would stay.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Pull both axleshafts and both CVs, lock the diff and drive with no concerns. Get those busted up parts out of there or else the cage will eventually explode, releasing the shrapnel into the swivel housing, next thing you know, you'll be buying a new swivel assembly and if it gets bad enough, a new stub axle as well.

BTDT-no problems with running locked if you remove everything (CVs and axleshafts) from the front diff, including the front driveshaft.

Paul
 

muskyman
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 02:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

how about parking it


.
pull out both sides

. have the good one longfielded

.
have the new one sent straight to longfield and have it done

then reasemble it and use it?
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

that would be sweet indeed musky....
 

adtoolco
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Musky, What is "Longfielding"?

TIA

-Chris
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well, the longfielding is clearly the way to go, however, it might be interesting to hear how he blew the CV joint up in the first place.

The vast majority of CV joint failures I have seen or heard of were related to three things: #1, no oil in siwvel ball, #2, HIGH miles with no preventive maintenance replacement, and #3 big tires, wheels on the stops, too much right pedal.

Paul
 

Marc Ingham (Marcingham)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

musky,
please explain longfielding...
 

Bruce
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for quick response.
After the failure, I limped back to camp and pulled the CV parts and half-shaft out, cleaned-up with magnet for shrapnel, put hub/wheel back on to get home.

Pull the front shaft sounds like the plan. Get these beefed up, not now, but will do later when more disposable income just happens to show-up.

How it got busted, well I have Detroit TTs front/back, and even though many have preached about going easy with the brake to trick the front wheels into locking, I must have been rough in the past. The damn CV grenaded driving up a very slight sandy incline.

Stay tuned folks, you going to read my extraordinary adventures about getting my extended warranty company to pay for the fix.
 

muskyman
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

well his link is dead so I wont bother putting it up.

what he does is welds a reinforcing ring onto the outer edge of the CV cage then treats them in a cryogenic bath to normalize the metal.


the hardcore landcruizer guys running huge tires have had good luck with it.

a friend of mine just got his 2 days ago so sounds like I will be installing some in an FJ75 this weekend(first set I will have had in hand)
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The only drawback to the longfields is the inability to use the ABS as the reinforcing bead takes the place of the exciter ring. Can they be used in un-modified swivels?

IMHO, I think the cryogenic treatment might just be the determining factor in the longevity of the longfield-again, IMO. Machine tools have benefited greatly from cryogenics.
 

muskyman
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

paul,

I tend to agree with you I have stock stub shafts in my scout that have been cryo'd by coldsteel chicago and they are lasting longer then aftermarket alloy ones they replaced.

thom
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

who's running longfields in a late model rover application? I thought the ring wouldn't fit in standard swivels...
 

Will Roeder (Will_Roeder)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

john bradley smith is have some CVs longfielded. maybe we will know more soon. I may send one off just to test fit it when i put my new GBR CV's in....
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

http://www.toyotasuperaxles.com/
 

Bruce
Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Why not simply cryo the cage and star only and then reassemble the CV? As you can tell, I am not sure why a reinforcing ring around the cage is required. How many articles have I read describing the brittle nature of these components relating to the major cause of failure? Many. I am incorrect with this assumption that you only want to moderately increase durability versus bullet-proofing thereby transfering stress to the next weakest link?
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Thursday, November 07, 2002 - 05:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bruce:
You have a good point. Once you reinforce a specific component, what is going to break next? At that point, as this spirals increasingly out of control, I begin to think what is the least expensive piece of the drivetrain, and which is the easiest to field repair, or what can I break and still get home?

The cages are pretty fragile IMHO, The stars bulletproof unless run after the cage explodes, but the halfshafts are plentiful used, inexpensive and not any more difficult to replace than a CV joint... Can we reinforce or strengthen the rest of the drivetrain so that the shafts bend or break, rather than expensive (relatively speaking) CV joints? Longfielding may achieve this.

Peace,
Paul
 

Bruce
Posted on Thursday, November 07, 2002 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Paul,
I do agree with that logic for sure. What I was questioning in my mind with the above post was the realtive strength of my TT versus the short half-shaft, e.g., what would go first. However, after remembering what my half-shaft looked like when I pulled it out, the splines were wasted on the CV side.
Longfielding is now in the future for me, especially when half-shafts are less than 50% the cost of CVs.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Thursday, November 07, 2002 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bruce:
Exactly! let's not blow up your differential when we can spin a halfshaft!

Paul

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