| Author |
Message |
    
BigJoeJack
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 07:13 pm: | 
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When I craft the exact Disco the way I want it, it comes out to MSRP $37K. I'm wondering how much bargaining can be done and how much you can actually get it for. Also, is that safari kit worth it and how much do they charge you for it??? Thanks, Joe |
Neal Glessner (Nealg)
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 10:46 pm: |
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I would go onto Edmunds.com and price your vehicle. Pay close attention to the tips they give about factoring in their hold-back in order to calculate the REAL profit that will make. I would then go to your 2nd choice dealer and negotiate your best deal. Then go to the dealer that you want to do business with na dget them to beat it.
Another thing to consider is checking into COSCO's auto purchase program. I had an employee, who got two prices for a new Mercedes SLK. He then contacted Costco and saved $3k. He did his homework and got a great deal. I'm not sure if Sam's Club has the same program but I would check with them also. |
Wes Legaspi (Wes)
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 10:57 pm: |
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im pretty sure others here will tell you to not get the safari kit (unless you like $afari Gard). Anyone correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't Land Rover do that 'no-haggle' type of selling new vehicles? |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 11:51 pm: |
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According to Edmund's, LRNA doesn't have a dealer hold-back. From what I've seen, LRNA is basically a "take it or leave it" type of dealership. Not in an offensive way, but... if you want a Land Rover, you're gonna pay for it. If not, that's fine, don't buy...
Yes, there's a little room, but not as much as you would think, from what I've seen (but, they could just really be consistent at playing hardball to make more money, where they could come down more if they wanted to, but don't want to)....
IMHO, YMMV....
-L |
Neal Glessner (Nealg)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 12:26 am: |
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I went in a few months ago and they offered way below sticker- I didn't even have to ask. |
JRoc
| | Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 12:30 am: |
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I've used Costco to purchase vehicles before, they're great! As far as safari kit goes I'd probably not get it and buy the stuff myself. The advantage is you can get the stuff you want and skip the stuff you don't. Also you can get stuff from different places, ie.( Rovertyme sliders with safari gard bumper, etc.). The down side is you couldn't finance the options in with the price of the vehicle. |
Eric
| | Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 02:23 am: |
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When I bought my 2000 Disco "new", they would have let me walk out the door. They would'nt budge.
I did get a keychain though
Eric |
Zinhead
| | Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 04:01 am: |
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LR pricing is dependent on the number of dealers in the market. Chicago has five dealers and pretty aggressive discounting. A smaller market like Albuquerque only has one dealer so don't discount. |
Rob Liflander
| | Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 09:33 am: |
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I am a sales guide at Land Rover Larchmont in Westchester County, NY.
We sell cars in a pretty narrow band of prices, which are discounted slightly off the MSRP.
Of course, it is market dependent on issues such as the popularity and new-ness of the car. For instance, the Freelander was brought in by LRNA at a "pre-discounted" MSRP and is going for the sticker price--we're making about the same or less on it than the "discounted" RR's and Disco's (percentage-wise).
Sometimes LRNA gives us incentives to finance (as opposed to lease), and sometimes to finance outside of Land Rover Financial Services. For example, if you finance a Range Rover outside of LR Financial, we can discount the car a substantial amount off the sticker.
All the financing and leasing rules are updated monthly, and generally move with the industry and the overall interest rates.
Email me for more details, or if you have any other questions. I'd be very happy to help out my fellow enthusiasts.
;-)
Rob |
KJ
| | Posted on Sunday, March 10, 2002 - 12:59 am: |
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I think I've said all this before, but I started with an Auto-By-Tel quote, and spoke with four or five dealerships in three states in negotiating my deal last August. I'd already dug through Edmunds and priced the vehicle the way I wanted it there. As I recall, the price I paid was about $5-6K under the full retail sticker. I also looked into fleet and executive cars, and in the final analysis felt I was actually doing better buying brand new. Obviously the dealership was still making money or they'd not have made a deal, and that was exactly a month before 9/11, so that was in happier, fatter times. In fact I had two dealerships very close to the same deal, but I opted for the local dealership so I'd have the Disco loaner when I needed it. Bargain, you CAN do it. Good luck.
Karen |
Erik Olson (Jon)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 10, 2002 - 02:10 am: |
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two words:
carsdirect.com
okay, not exactly two words... |
Mark (Mistert)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 10, 2002 - 01:56 pm: |
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How's this price:
2002 Disco II SE
Blenheim/Zambizzi Silver
Performance Package
Lightstone Interior
=$39000
My dealer only has 3 SE's left, and the other dealerships in town only have SD's. I've been able to negotiate the price down a couple thousand. It's clearly supply&demand scenario for the dealership, they don't have to sell to me, b/c there are tons of people in LA that would pay more than what I'm paying for that DII described above. what do you think? |
paul travaglino
| | Posted on Sunday, March 10, 2002 - 02:54 pm: |
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Bought my 2002 SE7 on December 7th.
Java Black & Bahama Beige
37,450 Base
500 Cold Climate
750 Rear Air
1,000 Rear Seating
645 Inland Transportation
40,345 MSRP
37,810 Negotiated Price (-2535)
+ 475 Acquisition Fee
38,285 Gross Cap. Cost
Leased for 3 years
10,000 miles per year
-Paul |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 11:58 am: |
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I work for a tier one manufacturer. GM will not discount their Hummers to employees or suppliers, same thing with Rover/Jag (even though we make parts for the Jag in this plant, and if Rover goes with Jag engines...).
FWIW, even if you do use the supplier discount, you would not believe the things they charge you for that are not listed on the window sticker. Can you believe a line item listing the stickers beneath the hood? Chevrolet does! That and it doesn't matter how you configure a vehicle, the supplier discount always is exactly $3,500 less than sticker and you get no rebates, etc.
Paul
'95 Disco certainly not bought new! |
Curtis
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 12:29 pm: |
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First - do not get a 2002. You will have no way of adding a CDL lever. Without CDL, it is not a good rig for serious off roading.
In light of this - get a 2000 or early 2001. I bought a six month old 2000 in Dec 2000 with 8000 miles:
SE7
Fully loaded except rear air & ACE:
MSRP (new $42K+)
I paid $33K
& they gave me $3000 more for my trade in than anyone else
I would say that if you can find a "program car" it would be the way to go. Mine was driven by a BMW Excec, maintained perfectly, and I saved over $1 per mile by letting him drive it.
Curtis |
BigJoeJack
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 12:54 pm: |
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excuse my stupidity, but whats a "CDL" Lever? I might try and find a 2001 but I kinda like being the original owner of things. Thanks |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 01:05 pm: |
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Center Differential Lock.
On a D1, you can lock the center-diff in the transfer case, thus forcing half the power to the front, and half the power to the rear. With the center-diff unlocked, the vehicle is able to throw the power between axles at will.
The DII removed the ability to lock the center-diff. This is it's biggest shortcoming. The first DIIs were using the same transfer case as the DI Discos. Thus, it was fairly easy to retrofit the CDL linkage to a DII. The newer DII x-cases have removed the ability to add a CDL.
-L |
Sean J
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 01:34 pm: |
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You might want to consider looking on eBay as well. There are several 2001s on there. I bought my 99 D2 on there in October for $22000 (26K miles). The key to keeping the price down on eBay is to wait until the auction is almost over (last 15 minutes or so) to start your serious bidding. With mine I stuck the winning bid in with 12 seconds left. |
KJ
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 02:22 pm: |
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As a serious ebayaholic, I say NEVER bid in anything less than the last 30 seconds of the auction. Last 5-10 seconds is best. If you bid any earlier they pick away at you until they quit and leave you having spent more than necessary. Be a sniper, never let 'em see ya comin'.....
Karen ;) |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 02:28 pm: |
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soooooo your that bastard that keeps snatching my 'earth wind and fire' and 'flock of seagulls' compilation CD's at the very end when i am not in the office or at home!!! damn you. i admit i do the same thing if someone bids within 5 min. of the end of auction i will then have no mercy and wait until there is about 20 sec. left.
"and she ran......she ran so far away....." man those guys were the best!!!
 |
JMcD
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 02:31 pm: |
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I have a serious question for those people who have bought vehicles from ebay, "Can you withdraw your bid if after you buy the truck doesn't run as advertised?" I guess what I mean is, is it worth it to buy a car,truck that you have never driven?? Just wondering, not trying to be critical, although I am sure thats the way it sounds. JMcD |
Curtis
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 02:47 pm: |
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Depends on the term of the auction. You really need to read all of the fine print bacause any bid is considered a legally binding contract. I have had several people try to back out of auctions they won before I even shipped the product. They have given all sorts of lame reasons: "I found one for cheaper.", "My wife said I can't get it because we need to feed the kids" My response: "Pay up or pay for the auction +$20 for dealing with you". I figure, once they have been set straight they never pull that crap again. I always get paid:-)
The key is to know what you are doing. Many people (especially dealers) will allow for an inspection and drive of the rig before delivery. Some will not and it is "as is" the moment you bid.
Curtis
-who has not bought a car from Ebay |
Jason
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 02:58 pm: |
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As an alternative to eBay, think about some late-model dealers like Bear Valley (Altanta, GA) that only deal in used LR's. You can find almost all configurations of Disco II's there, and if you don't see what you want, they'll be happy to find you the exact configuration. you can drive before you buy, and they'll even put you up while you're in Altanta.
www.bvlr.com |
Tommy Dougherty (Skydiver)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 03:02 pm: |
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I bought my latest DII via Ebay (from a non-lr dealer in MO). I saved over 5k what my local dealer had the same vehicles listed for. I used some airline miles to fly myself and future brother-in-law out to MO to drive it back, so it cost me my bid + 1 night hotel and then gas to get it home. So, net, I guess I saved 4800 or so.
I've been an e-bay user since 1997 and this was the first vehicle I've bought via ebay.
-Tommy |
Sean J
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 03:07 pm: |
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I was lucky with mine because I called a friend that lived where the seller was and had him go by and drive it before I put my bid in. I would definitely do a carfax check on it before you bid, and if it has been dealer maintained, calling the dealer for service records. You can alos send the seller questions (as detailed as you want) before you bid - if you do and certain representations are made by the seller be sure and hold onto copies of your correspondence. The only "catch" with mine was that I assumed it had dual roofs but it only had one.
Like Curtis said though it is a legally binding contract, but I think if you save your correspondnece re: representations made about the vehicle you will have a way out if the Rover is not as promised.
Garrett - I'm a big Flock fan as well. They tour every once in a while but you have to watch for them. |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 03:26 pm: |
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you better be kidding sean!!! actually they were here in state college, pa about 5 years ago i think it was. in a place that sat about 50-60 people. it was a huge joke. of course i was not present at the event.......just saw it advertised. talk about going out with a bang!! yeah right.
i just dug that one guys hair. looked kinda like a seagull. |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 03:27 pm: |
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I can't ever see how someone is willing to buy a new car that will lose 1/3rd of its value in 12-14 months. Now a car that holds it's value (for a longer time)is a different story... British cars are definetely the kind I would never buy new. My friend used to tell me "why not let some other fool take the loss instead of you". That new Rover smell ain't worth $10k - $15k. No offense to anyone, just my opinion. |
Curtis
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 03:47 pm: |
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Kingfish,
I am with you. I saved $10K just by letting some other person borrow my rig for 10 months. That is how I look at it. That was nearly 25% and it was done through a Land Rover Center. They even extended the warranty for the miles that were driven (8K).
Furthermore, they did not just give me a keychain, but two long sleeve LR shirts and great service to boot.
This is not to knock anyone who bought thiers at list. It was a decision I made based on what was available. They typically do not have almost new program cars just laying around, but I even had a choice in color 'cuz they had three of them.
Curtis |
Tommy Dougherty (Skydiver)
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 04:23 pm: |
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I wouldn't put too much trust in Carfax anymore. A friend of mine just purchased the '30 days unlim report' thing and I had her run my 97 Disco, which I totaled on 10/1/01 - I just wanted to see if it was showing as salvage or whatever. The report came back clean - no history of problems, and no title xfers listed since I made the purchase.
-Tommy |
Ross
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 06:07 pm: |
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Don't trust carfax alone. As a three time car buyer from ebay I use feedback, testimonials, dealer records, carfax, Email, and a thorough PPI. That withstanding, if the description is complete I'd email the seller if the car has ever been wrecked/rebuilt or repainted. Here in Oklahoma you are not required to disclose if a vehicle has been previously damaged unless asked.
All of this should protect you if you show up and the vehicle is not as described to you. You can get out of ebay bids regardless of the seller if you have grounds. The worst that will likely happen is a negative feedback or at worst having your ebay alias removed.
Good luck
Ross
97 Disco LSE "For Sale" 93K 2own EC British Racing Green all rec's $13K |
JMcD
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 08:05 pm: |
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Yeah, I see the point if the rig is a great deal, kind of a "what do I have to lose?" But when I was shopping for my 96, I heard the same story from every idiot dealer I spoke to, "The diflock works fine, runs super, highway miles(what the hell is the difference?, and how does He know it was driven on the highway at all?) Most that I drove were in pretty good shape, NONE had a working dif-lock(roadsalt and all) and some felt a little 'rough', if you know what I mean.
I would love to steal a nice rig on ebay, but I would be so friggin nervous I dont think it would be worth it. I would like to see a survey of 1000 buyers of cars/trucks on ebay, might be interesting. JMcD |
KJ
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 11:52 pm: |
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What I know from my buying experience last August was that the difference in price on a new Disco and used/program/fleet cars was not worth it to me. I was going to save all of about $1500.00 buying an executive car, and for that I want to KNOW how that engine was driven in it's first miles. I was *told* I'd save between $6K and $10K, but when it came time to do the deal that was NOT the case, even from the turd who promised the same for months prior. (He did NOT get my business, either)
I got my new 2001 loaded SE, with CCP, lightstone leather and front and back LR rubber floor mats for under $36K. Like I said before, they made money, I felt good about the deal and everyone was happy. I drive 'em til they're wheels up, so depreciation is not that much of a biggie for me. Break-in and proper care is far more important to me and I have that in my control if I do it myself. Everyone should do as they feel most comfortable.
Karen |
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