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R. B. Bailey (Rover50987)
Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

For some time now I have noticed a knocking sound coming from my drive train somewhere. The truck shifts fine, I don't notice any problems with low range or diff-lock. It can be heard between 20-35 miles per hour and speeds up or slows down in frequency with the speed of the truck. Anyway, I think it is the rear drive shaft.

I think I confirmed this when I took the rear shaft off during a prolonged rotoflex change out and noticed that the knock was not there. I THINK this is good news, it would seem to me that this means it is NOT in the transfere case or in the rear diff, but in the rear drive shaft itself. Which I have no problem getting a new one or repairing this one - better on the wallet than a transfere case or diff.

Anyone out there confirm this? And how do I test the shaft and the U-joint for problems?

http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net
 

Mike B.
Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

There should be no play in the joint itself. It's best to remove the driveshaft and inspect the ujoints off the vehicle. On the vehicle, chock the wheels and put the transfer case in neutral (to remove all pressure on the driveshaft).

I use a small pry bar to pry against joint to check for play. I pry backwards and try rotating the driveshaft. If I get any movement at all, I replace the joint. The roller bearings will wear out first. Once they start going, it's only a short time before the ujoint fails.

I hope this helps.

Thanks,
Mike B.
 

R. B. Bailey (Rover50987)
Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks, I will try it. With the t-case in N, would I get any rotation on the shaft? Are you saying that the movement I don't want is in the joint only?
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I figure they are cheap enough that every 75K, they should be changed.

For $75.00, it's cheap insurance, compared to new cats and transfer case.

Paul
 

nadim
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I get a Spicer U-joint, which I was told from several people in the LR world that they are stronger than LR ones, for 13$ US.
 

muskyman
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

the easiest way to check ujoints is put the truck in park turned off set the parking brake . lay under the vehichle while a couple people rock the truck back and fourth against the parking brake.

this will load and unload the drivline against the resistance of the ground and the parking brake.

now one joint at a time observe to see if the center of the joints move reletive to the yoke/driveshaft. there should be no play at all in any of the joints.

if I was to go as far as inspecting them off the vehicle, I'd be inspecting the arc they make as I throw them in the trash. If I am going as far as pulling the shaft I am sure goona replace them pulling the shafts is 85% of the job the joint change once you have done a few is really a fast process. the easiest way I have found is using a large bench vise or verticle press so you can push them togather with smooth even pressure.

the sevice mgr at the local LR dealer here showed me a $4500 dollar invoice for repairs after a disco lost its front shaft at lake Geneva. It was his sales pitch for a "offroad PM service". I declined his offer with a snicker but thats because I do my own work. he was really just putting out the same word of warning Paul above made when he said

"I figure they are cheap enough that every 75K, they should be changed.

For $75.00, it's cheap insurance, compared to new cats and transfer case."

"Paul"

good advise
 

Bob
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

May I add to this topic? I have the same problem. The truck runs smooth but when I decelerate at 20-35mph I could hear the tak-tak-tak noice coming from the back. Would it be a differential or could it only be a u-joint. What are the symptoms or sounds that you hear if its a differential.
Thanks
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bob:
It depends upon what has broken in the diff. If you have a noise upon deceleration, it is because you are loading up a portion of the driveline that prefers to be driving, instead of being driven. This could be due to excessive pinion lash or bearing preload on the side gears, or it could be the roto-flex. How many miles on the roto-flex?

My money's on the Roto-flex.

Peace,
Paul
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You know what? For nearly 4 years I was plagued by all these weird noises coming from "underneath" my 96 Disco. Everyone was probably laughing behind my back as I tried to describe the noises: tick-tick-tick, zzzzzt-zzzzzt-zzzzzzt, ffffllllt-fffflllllt-fffllllt and so on. It was all the goddamn rotoflex. Roto gone, all those weird noised gone, including one noise I SWORE was an exhaust leak.
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yeah but how do you account for that bad rash on your inner thigh blue? hmmmm.
i too am a happier camper without that damn thing they call a rotoflex. i have been healed!!!!!!!!! praise the U joint gods.
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

she had 5 o'clock shadow
 

Will Bobbitt (Rkores)
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I am having a clunking noise coming from the passenger side drive train. When turing and accelerating it does it the most, but it is random. It sometimes happens when I am slowing down, but again, it is totally random. When it happens, it's just one "Dunk" sound. There is no pattern for the clunking, sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't. Over the past week though, the clunking has become more persistant. I shook both of my drive shafts close to the U-joints and I felt no play, but I haven't done the tests that are mentioned above. I have an '89 RRC with the Borg Warner.

Thanks,
Will Bobbitt
[email protected]
 

Bob
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Paul, I have a u-joint with 93,000mi. The first time you drive it after a long park there is no noise when decelerating. But after driving for a a while (maybe when it gets hot)the noise comes back. Only when you decelerate. Did you mention bearing? Thanks

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