| Author |
Message |
    
Mike Goodell (Mikegoodell)
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 04:24 pm: | 
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Well, despite the asurances from the 4x4 Center and Rovers North, changing the front cover gasket is not as easy as they claimed. It might be a common leak point but the repair sofar has been a 3 hour exercise in frusteration. All of the bolts are out, the water pump is off and the cover is moveable. There are locating pins on the cover as well as 2 g#*#@^m STUDS in the bottom thru the oil pan, instead of bolts like the rest of them around the pan. Because of the studs you can't get enough clearance on the pins and the drive for the oil pump to tilt the cover and lift it out. So tommorrow morning is going to start by dropping the oil pan and hopefully a short time later re-assembly.
Sorry for the long winded post, I had to vent somewhere and the neighbors kids don't need to hear what I was about to spew forth.
Mike G
96 Disco SD |
M. Recke (Disco_Obsession)
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 07:21 pm: |
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I can imagine the frustration. You are not alone out there in DYI world. At least when it satisfactorily done you have a cold beer sit back and admire your handy work, and know that you have done it youreslf and not paid the dealer to do it! Then you become an expert and can advise someone like me when I have to do it and offer advise on how to make it easy. Hang in there Pal!
Never say Die! |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 07:30 pm: |
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What about removing the studs? |
Mike Goodell (Mikegoodell)
| | Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 08:24 pm: |
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I'm not ready to throw in the towel yet, but at the moment I realized that I would have to drop the oilpan my advice would have been to pay someoneelse to do it!!!
As far as Olivers suggestion to remove the studs, I want to get it apart to see how much material there is in the bottom flange of the cover before I bugger up the studs removing them. I believe that they are lock-tite'ed in and seeing as how the cover is aluminum I am not keen on screwing up the holes.
On a side note the Haynes manual for the series I Disco covers everything on the rig except the engine in NAS spec Disco's. Still worth having for reference but kind of usless in this instance.
Mike G.
96 Disco SD |
Kyle
| | Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 09:06 am: |
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Pan taks like a whole 10 minutes to remove. No biggie and makes for a better , cleaner job.
Kyle |
Mike Goodell (Mikegoodell)
| | Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 07:08 pm: |
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I don't know about cleaner, but on the 4.0 engine it is the only way because of the studs in the bottom of the front cover as well as the fact that the oil pump drive is a collar that goes around the crank. The cover has to be pulled straight off the engine, and the only way is to drop the oil pan.
I replaced the cover gasket, the water pump gasket, the crank seal and the cam shaft sensor o-ring. I also replaced the o-rings on the oil lines that go to the radiator just because I had some on hand that would fit them.
The only other thing to remember is to take the oil pump cover off from the inside of the front cover and pack it full of petroleum jelly. If this step is forgotten you will be replacing your engine shortly after you restart your re-assembled
engine.
This whole project took about 7 hours mostly because of a late start on saturday and a lack of being familiar with the rover engine. If I had to do it again, it could be done in about 4.5-5 hours
just because of the learning curve from doing it the first time.
Mike G.
96 Disco SD |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 08:31 am: |
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Yet another reason to be glad I have a distributor! |
Ken Dunnington (Ihwillys)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 08:58 am: |
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"The only other thing to remember is to take the oil pump cover off from the inside of the front cover and pack it full of petroleum jelly. If this step is forgotten you will be replacing your engine shortly after you restart your re-assembled
engine."
I'm curious what the petroleum jelly is doing here...
Ken |
Mike Goodell (Mikegoodell)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 09:08 am: |
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The petroleum jelly is to give the oil pump something to pump to reprime itself. I have read and heard from several sources on the web and the Haynes manual that it needs to be done because the pump is not self priming.
Also it cautions about pump prime in the owners manual when doing oil changes. It says to drain and refill the oil then replace the filter with the new one that has been pre-charged with fresh oil. That procedure plus the oil that will drain back from the oil cooler lines keeps the pump primed.
Mike G.
96 Disco SD |
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