| Author |
Message |
    
Andy Nix (Andy)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 02:38 pm: | 
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I'm replacing the front bearings on my Disco SI.
How many BEARINGS do I need for just the front? I've got a race and bearing for each side.....should I have a race AND two bearings for each side? Or am I OK ?
Please don't post unless you know for sure.
Thanks!!
Andy |
Alex Schubow (Alex)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 02:42 pm: |
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2 bearings/races per wheel |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 02:47 pm: |
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Andy:
Ideally, you will require two races and two bearings for each side.
The hub has a recess into which each race is pressed (gently hammered) such that the wider end (convex) of the taper is toward the inside of the hub-the two bearings will each bottom into this race.
A complete set requires eight bearings SETS, a set is made up of the race and the bearing.
You will also need a hub seal, I recomment the RTC 3511, double lip seal. Not only does it supposedly seal better, you cannot mess up which end goes in first, nor can you seat it too shallow, nor too deep. You also need the bendable washers and drive flange gaskets (although many merely use Hylomar).
I usually suggest that first-timers do each side individually so that things like CV joint spacing washers don't get mixed up.
Good luck and check back if you need more help.
Paul |
Andy Nix (Andy)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 03:12 pm: |
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so,
right side = two races and two bearings and seals
left side = two races and two bearings and seals
??? |
Alex Schubow (Alex)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 03:49 pm: |
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2 bearing/race sets and one oil seal per side |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 04:05 pm: |
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DON'T FORGET THE BENDABLE WASHERS!
Sorry about the caps, but it drives me nuts to see washers that look like they've either been chewed on by the Loch Ness Monster, or beaten against rocks.
Only thing worse is hub nuts with channellock scars! |
Andy Nix (Andy)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 04:27 pm: |
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So, I'm going to order the following for the front:
(4) LM-603011 KOYO
(4) LM-603049 KOYO
These part numbers differ from the TIMKEN numbers found on D-90.com....anyone know the difference ?
Andy |
Andy Nix (Andy)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 04:59 pm: |
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bump |
OLIVER CLOTHSOFF (Everythingleaks)
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 10:43 pm: |
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If you look on the original bearings I believe they are Timken. The D-90 and Disco I bearings I thought were the same. If you could get the number off the old bearing ( or one from a dealer) a bearing shop should be able to match it up for you. Same with the races. This is what I've done in the past and it has always been cheaper. |
Ron
| | Posted on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 10:52 pm: |
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Timken #23
"Only thing worse is hub nuts with channellock scars! "
Why not?
Ron |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 08:08 am: |
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Andy - I recently picked up new bearings for my D1 which were Koyo - don't have the part numbers handy, but no problems with the bearings - they are equivalents.
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 09:26 am: |
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Timken bearing SET #37. Go to NAPA, they should cost about $20/set.
I believe that these same bearings will fit nearly all Rovers, with the exception of the Salisbury rear ends, and some front axles.
They also fit Dodge one-ton 4X4s, John Deere tractors and combines, and finally, Case backhoes. They are very robust and usually don't require replacement unless they have been run dry, or the preload wasn't maintained. I have heard of folks going 350,000 miles on original wheel bearings. I have also been told of a certain dealer who will demand they be replaced annually if the vehicle is off-roaded.
I have nearly 160K on mine with no intentions of replacing in the foreseeable future.
Paul |
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