| Author |
Message |
    
mark tlumacki (Zaralexanderus)
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 10:00 am: | 
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I wish to replace the front rotars on my 98' Disco. According to the Workshop manuel it apperas to be a big deal. Are there any shorhcuts? It seems to me a very complex procedure to replace such a simple part. Thanks |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 10:10 am: |
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There are many parts to remove or move out of the way, but it isn't that big a deal, especially considering the cost of having someone else do it.
At the risk of being flamed for saying it, if you're gonna go this far, you may as well go the rest of the way and replace everything you take off. OK, maybe not everything, but you do have a wonderful opportunity to do what needs to be done!
Think about it, if you have worn your rotors away, will anything else be worn inside that you might want to replace?
I won't apologize for this attitude. In most cases, just getting to what is broken is the time consuming part. Why not fix the next part to break and save the time to get to it?
Unrepentant,
Paul |
muskyman
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 11:25 am: |
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Unrepentant paul
even the calipers?
or is that the " OK, maybe not everything" part? |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 11:57 am: |
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Depends upon the condition of the calipers. In fact, caliper function can lead to accelerated rotor wear. Someone recently commented either here or on the RN board that the seals were on a schedule for replacement every six years.
While I don't necessarily suggest that one replace everything, there are a multitude of parts that will be uncovered in this process that due to their relatively low cost and ease of access that lend themselves to replacement while you are in there.
I don't suggest that all of the fasteners be replaced either.
As always, we must assume some degree of reasonableness to every activity. But, I wouldn't want to overlook the likelihood that maybe wheel bearings might need replacement, along with hub seals. And, since you are more than half way there, what condition are one's swivel seals in? I'm sure you'll at least partially agree with me that removing the calipers and the hub are major time consumers in the replacement of swivel ball seals and whose swivel balls don't leak? I won't even suggest that it is a good time to at least inspect one's CV joints for scarred cages!
Still unrepentant!
Paul |
mark
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 12:46 pm: |
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Which rotors should I use? Stock? Drilled? Slotted? Are there any particularly good aftermarket rotors?
Oh and while I'm at it, what brake pads should I get to go with the new rotors?
Mark |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, November 15, 2002 - 01:14 pm: |
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Being the cheap bastard I am, I will uncharacteristically keep my opinions on drilled rotors and expensive brake pads to myself!
OK, I can't do it!
Mark, buy the least expensive rotors you can find. DAP had them on sale recently at very attractive prices. As for the brake pads, you may be surprised to find that they are available from Advance Auto Parts and NAPA at prices far below what the Rover vendors will sell them for.
I got my front pads from Advance and have 30K+ on them. They quit squealing eventually!
Paul |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2002 - 05:14 pm: |
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For Slotted and Cross-Drilled rotors, try Bill at Great Basin Rovers. He has some Kevlar/Metalic combination pads for sale at a pretty reasonable price too.
My stopping power sucks after doing a 2" lift and putting on bigger meats. I've been looking around at options and Bill seems to be pretty knowledgable.
Thanks,
Mike B. |
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