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Aaron
Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi, I have read all the posts regarding the rubber tubing rotting, and I have gone so far as to replace all the rubber tubing, and replaced the plastic three-way tee with a brass one. Still no go. I'm not sure I have the little plunger behind the brake pedal set properly, but I'm guessing that would be too easy of a fix. How can I tell if it is the vacuum pump, or the actual cruise control ECU? I removed the vacuum pump, and made sure wire harness was connected, and hoses were connected appropriately. Cruise control is something I can live without, but it sure makes a difference when you are going a long way. Thanks,

Aaron
96 D1
 

Bill M. (Circekat)
Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Aaron:

Just a couple of questions for you to work with.

1) Does light come on when you depress the cruise control switch? If "no", problem may be a bad fuse.

2) Do you hear a relay clicking when you depress the set/acc? If not, the relay may be bad. If not the relay, the rotary coupling in the steering column may be the culprit. The rotary coupling has been a gremlin in the past, so much that there was a recall for repairs at one time.

3) Does the actuator hold vacuum? The actuator is the UFO looking device on the throttle housing. With the engine off, disconnect the vacuum tubing. Then depress the throttle linkage and hold a finger over the hose connection to see if the actuator holds the throttle in place.

Unfortunately, my workbook does not include ways to test the vacuum pump or the ECU.

I hope that this helps.

Bill M.
 

Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

anybody got a pic of under the hood that can point to the actuator
 

bryan
Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just fixed my c.c. THe tubing was busted at the T. I cut it off and my cruise still didnt work. I traced one of the lines coming off the T that went to the throttle housing. It was cracked I cut it off and it fixed it
Hope that gets it done
Bryan
 

Bill
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 01:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just fixed my cruise and the problem was the ECU. About $175 and it works better than it ever did before it started the "intermittent" thing.
 

Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
Posted on Wednesday, November 20, 2002 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My tubing is perfect and the actuator holds the throttle in place.
What about the plunger behind the brake pedal
Do you have to remove anything to see it?
 

Aaron
Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Does anyone know where the relay for the CC is located? My Hanes Manual does not even list it? Thanks,
 

Bill
Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Go through all of the troubleshooting this, troubleshooting that, and I'll bet you it is the ECU in the end. Just MHO. Hope I'm wrong.
 

Bruce
Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You have got so many differetn electrical connections within the circuit. CC lockout relay, Park/Nuetral postion switch, Theft Alarm switch, MFI resistors, diodes, Brake Vent Switch, coupler, on/off switch, on and on and on. The lockout relay is located behind the RH fascia in the footwell.
Maybe as a test, get with a buddy, swap his ECU for a test then go from there. Avoid everything else, besides obvious stuff, and hit the chronic culprits as Bill indicates, vacuum and ECU.
BTW, do you have current to the pump?
Good luck.
 

Scott - OZ
Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i JUST HAD MINE DIAGNOSED ON MY 95 DISCO - IT WAS THE BRAKE SWITCH - REPLACED THAT AND IT WORKED (IT DID NOT WORK AT ALL BEFORE THAT)

s
 

jerry
Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2002 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i checked the vacume motor by removing it and putting 12v to the lead. the motor worked and i knew it was good

my .02

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